Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 115 Sauce camelyn

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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115. Sauce camelyn for quaylys & othir maner of foules and fysch
[f70r] Take white bred & draw hit in the maner of sauce gynger with venyger & put ther to poudyr of canell a grete dele & poudyr of gynger & poudyr lumbard & draw hit a ghen & yf thu wilt draw a lytyll mustard ther with & sesyn hit up with sygure that hit be doucete salt hit & colour hit with safron.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 53 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak sauce camelyne for quaile, tak whyt bred and drawe it in the sauce in the manner of guinger sauce with venyger put ther to pouder of guinger canelle and pouder lombard a goodelle and ye may draw alitille mustard ther with and sesson it up with mustard that it be douce salt it and colour it with saffron and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

On its own, the phrase "mustard that it be douce" in the Noble version is odd, but the error is made clear by the substitution of "sugar" in Wagstaff for the second appearance of "mustard".

There are many recipes for Camaline Sauce in surviving cookbooks, with a wide variety of ingredients, but these two are the only ones I've found that call for mustard.

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 114 Sauce Madam

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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114. Sauce Madam
Take the yarmazs of a gose flat hem wesch hem skinyn hem clene and the gessez and the lyne & the lefe of the gose & the soule do al in a pot to gedyr boyle hit tendyr take hit up lay hit on a bord pyke a wey the bonys of the whengys & hew hit smal do hit in a pott do ther to onyons mynsyd smal clovys macys & fars the gose with onyons & herbys hewyb wardons mynsyd grapys rose hepe smyte here in pecys lay here in a chargeour & do the farsour in a pott to that othir & wyn & sesyn hit up with poudr salt & venyger and yf thu wilt thu may take yolkes of eyron sodyn hard & ground small & do ther to like hit be salt & pure hit on the perys.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 52 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak sauce madame tak the tharmes of a gose and slit them and shave them clene then tak the gossern the wings the skyn and the soule of the gose and put them all in a pot with mynced onyons mynced wardens and grapes rostid then rost hir and smyt hir in peces and lay here in a chargiour and put the farser in a pot put ther to wyn and sesson it up with pouder and salt and venygar and thou wilt thou may tak yolks of egges sodene herd and cromyd smalle and put ther to and let it be salt and pour it on the peces and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The wording is surprisingly similar. Not only do both use of the word "tharmes/yarmazs" (entrails), but they also feature the unusual use of the pronoun "her" to describe the food in place of the more common "him" or "it".

There are versions of Sauce Madame in other surviving cookbooks, but their wording is significantly different.

Sawse Madame. XXX. Take sawge. persel. ysope. and saueray. quinces. and peeres, garlek and Grapes. and fylle the gees þerwith. and sowe the hole þat no grece come out. and roost hem wel. and kepe the grece þat fallith þerof. take galytyne and grece and do in a possynet, whan the gees buth rosted ynowh; take an smyte hem on pecys. and þat tat is withinne and do it in a possynet and put þerinne wyne if it be to thyk. do þerto powdour of galyngale. powdour douce and salt and boyle the sawse and dresse þe Gees in disshes and lay þe sowe onoward.  [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]

Sawce madame. Take sawge, persoly, ysope, saveray, Onyons gode, peres, garlek, I say, And grapes. go fille þy gose þenne And sew þy hole, no grece oute renne. Lay hur to fyre and rost hyr browne, And kepe þo grece þat falles doune. Take galingale and þo grece þat renne, Do hit in posnet, as I þe kenne. Whenne þo gose is rostyd, take hir away, Smyte hir in pesys, I þe pray. Þat is within, þou schalle take oute, Kest in þy posnet with outene doute. 3if hit is thyke do þerto wyne, And powder of galingale þat is fyne, And powder dowce and salt also. Boyle alle togeder er þou fyr go, In a dysshe þy gose þou close Þe sawce abofe, as I suppose.  [Liber cure cocorum (England, 1430)]

Sauce Madame. Take sauge and parsel, ysope, and saveray, and qwynses (quinces), and gode percs pared, and cut hom and garlyk and grapes; then take gees clene wasshen, and fyl the gees therwythe, and sowe wel the hole that no grees go oute, and rost horn wel, and kepe the gresc clene that droppes in the rostynge ; then take galentyne and the grees of the gees, and do hit in a postenet (pipkin); and when the gees byn ynough, take hom of the fpitte and smyte hom on peces, and take that that is within smal hewen, and do it in the postenet; and do therto a litel wyn and raisynges of corance, and pouder of gynger and of canel, and let hit boyle, then dresse thi gees in platers, and poure the sauce above, and serve hit forthe.  [Ancient Cookery (England, 1425)]

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 113 Hattes In Lentyn

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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113. (Hattes) In lentyn
Thou may make thy past of paryd floure knodyn with milke of almondys & put ther to alytyll safron take fresch samon base melete & the lyver of fisch sodyn & groundyn & a lytyll fruyte ther with & yf thu wilte poudrys safron & salt make thy bature of paryd floure & milke of almondys & dryght hit in the same maner as thu dedyste byfore.

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While the name "Hattes" is implicit in the title, it is explicitly included in the corresponding recipe (number 51) in A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak hattes in lent mak a paist of pured flour knoddene with mylk of almondes then tak saffron eles base or molet and the leuer of the fishe sodden and grond put them to alitille fritture pouder of saffron and salt and mak the bater of pured floure and almond mylk and do it as ye did be for.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The list of fish from the Noble version seems to have left out salmon - perhaps a copying error that collapsed "saffron take fresh salmon" into just "saffron".

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 112 Hattes

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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112. Hattes
Make a past of paryd floure knedyn with yolkes of eyron & make a st[uff] of vele or pork sodyn & gryoundyn with yolkes of eyron mary dysyd & datus mymynsyd corauns sigure safron & salt poudyr & medyll al to gedyr & make youre past of round foyles of the brode of a saucer as thyn may be drawn turne hem doble that the brerdys may come to the medyll of the foyle then turne hem to gedyr that the brerdys on the more mete al aboute & the lasse brerde turne upward with outyn in the maner of a hat & close well the egges that they hold well fyll ther on thy stuff have a bature of yolkes of eyron & whete floure in the opyn syde that ys toward loke ther yn the stuf be closyd & set hit yn hote grece upryght when the bature ys fryed thu may ley hym down & fry hym al over.

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This version is a close match for recipe 50 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak hattes in flesshe tyme mak a paiste of pured flour, knodene with yolks of eggs and mak a stuf of vele or pork sodene tender and ground with yolks of eggs putther to mary diced and dates mynced smalle and raissins of corrans with sugur saffron and salt and pouder mellid to gedur in paiste and wound foilles of the brod of a saucere as thyn as ye may dryf them and dryf them that the bredes may cuver to the middes of the foile then turn them to gedur that the bredes of the inor sid met all about and lesse the bred and turn upward without in the manner of an hatte and close welle the eggs that they hold full ther in and luk the stuf haue a good batter made with yolks of eggs and flour of whet the open sid that is downward luk ther in that the stuf be clossed and so set it in hot grece up right and when the battur is fried lay them doun and serve them.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The wording in the Noble version makes it clear that the incomplete word in Wagstaff is "stuff".  It is also interesting that the phrase "close well the eggs" (rather than edges) is repeated in both versions.