Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 179 Bace Mylet or Breme

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2015 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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179. Bace Mylet or Breme
Draw all thes at the bely scale hem clene with the ege of a knyf wesch hym make thy sauce of watyr & salt when hit boyleth scome hit clene & schorch fyrst othyr twarte to the syde & cast hit yn the wellyng sayce sage & percelley & serve hit forth somdell hote serve the base & the melet with sauce gynger & the breme with garlecke.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 113 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To dight bace molet or breme drawe them at the belly and skale them clene and wesche them and mak ye sauce of water and salt and when it boilithe scom it clene and scoche them outwhat the sides and cast them in at the boiling put ther to parsly and saige and serue it. the bace and the molet with guinger.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

How Much is Too Much?

Sometimes people say things that make me twitch, the most common one being the old canard that medieval cooks used spices to cover up the taste of spoiled meat (hint: they didn't).

The thing that sent me into fits today though was a bit I read in an article on the NPR website entitled How Snobbery Helped Take The Spice Out Of European Cooking. You ready? Here it is:

Back in the Middle Ages, spices were really expensive, which meant that only the upper class could afford them.

That doesn't sound unreasonable, does it? They even linked to the website of Professor John Munro (Department of Economics, University of Toronto), which is a site I've often used and cited myself.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

See, the thing is that if you actually look at the numbers Professor Munro provides, you find that they don't make such a clear case for "really expensive", and they certainly don't show spices to have been completely out of reach for the working and middle classes.

Near the bottom of Munro's website is a bunch of tables where he lists the actual prices of a number of goods, and includes the quantity that could be bought by the daily wage of a carpenter or mason. Cinnamon, for example was 24 pence/pound in 1439 London, and the day's wages for a carpenter (8d) could buy about a third of a pound.

Yeah, that's a lot. If you go by the daily wage of an unskilled worker instead (2d) and assume that's the equivalent to today's minimum wage, it works out to about ten times what spices cost in the local grocery store.

Here's the thing: that's for a third of a frickken' pound of cinnamon. Most people don't use that much cinnamon in their entire life.

They could, however, go down to the local spice seller and buy a small amount of cinnamon, say a quarter of an ounce, and it wouldn't bust their budget for the month.

Now take into account that, like today, many in medieval Europe's working class relied on fast food -pies, sausages, and stews from the local cookshops. In order to attract more customers, the owners of the cookshops are going to do their best to make the food taste good. That means sometimes adding ... wait for it ... spices. So even the poorest folks in London likely had a little spice in their lives.

The article goes on to quote some other theories about late medieval and early modern diet, and most of them are even further off the mark than the whole spice thing. I can go into details if you really want, but I should probably take anti-seizure medicine first.

In summary: Yes, spices were expensive, but they weren't that expensive.

... and no, you couldn't really buy a horse with a single peppercorn.

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 178 Coddlyng Leng Haddoke & Hake

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2015 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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178. Coddlyng Leng Haddoke & Hake
Draw hem by the bely cut hem ovir twarte yn round pecys yf the haddok be large cut of the hedde & make a longe tayle to serve make thy sauce of watyr & salt when hit boyleth scome hit clene & cast yn the lyver & the fysch & thy percelley & let hit stond in the sauce till you serve then serve hit forth hote & the lyver ther withe & sauce hit with garkeck stp the haddok & serv hym coldd & serve hem with sauce gynger.

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This recipe is a variation of recipe 112 from A Noble Boke off Cookry. The recipes are the same right up to where it says to serve with the liver, but then the Wagstaff version adds instructions for saucing the fish.

Soppes pour Chamberleyne. Take wyne, Canell, powder ginger, sugur/ of eche a porcion; And cast all in a Streynour, And honge hit on a pyn, And late hit ren thorgh a streynour twies or thries, til hit ren clere; And then take paynmain, And kutte hit in a maner of Browes, And tost hit, And ley hit in a dissh, and caste blanche pouder there-on ynogh; And then cast the same licour vppon the Soppes, and serue hit forthe fore a good potage.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

xxviij - Soupes Jamberlayne. Take Wyne, Canel, an powder of Gyngere, an Sugre, an of eche a porcyoun, than take a straynoure and hange it on a pynne, an caste ale ther-to, an let renne twyis or thryis throgh, tyl it renne clere; an then take Paynemaynne an kyt it in maner of brewes, an toste it, an wete it in the same lycowre, an ley it on a dysshe, an caste blawnche powder y-now ther-on; an than caste the same lycour vp-on the same soppys, an serue hem forth in maner of a potage.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

There is also one variant of cameline sauce that has almost the same ingredients.

To dight codlinge hak or haddok draw them at the belly and cut them outwhart in rond peces and the haddok be large cut of the hed and mak a large taile and mak the sauce of water and salt and when it boilethe scome it clene and cast in the fische and the lever and parsly and let it ly in the sauce till ye serue it hot and the leuer there with.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 177 Soupes Chamlayn

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2015 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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177. Soupes Chamlayn
Take wyne canell poudyr of gynger & sigure of eche a porcon stamp hit a while to gedyr hong a streynour ovir a vessell let hit hong stillk ij or iij hourys take payndemayn & cut yn maner of brewys tost hem ovyr both sydys & cast on blaunch poudyr & the syrip abovyn & serve hit forth.

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There are two versions of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Soppes pour Chamberleyne. Take wyne, Canell, powder ginger, sugur/ of eche a porcion; And cast all in a Streynour, And honge hit on a pyn, And late hit ren thorgh a streynour twies or thries, til hit ren clere; And then take paynmain, And kutte hit in a maner of Browes, And tost hit, And ley hit in a dissh, and caste blanche pouder there-on ynogh; And then cast the same licour vppon the Soppes, and serue hit forthe fore a good potage.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

xxviij - Soupes Jamberlayne. Take Wyne, Canel, an powder of Gyngere, an Sugre, an of eche a porcyoun, than take a straynoure and hange it on a pynne, an caste ale ther-to, an let renne twyis or thryis throgh, tyl it renne clere; an then take Paynemaynne an kyt it in maner of brewes, an toste it, an wete it in the same lycowre, an ley it on a dysshe, an caste blawnche powder y-now ther-on; an than caste the same lycour vp-on the same soppys, an serue hem forth in maner of a potage.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

There is also one variant of cameline sauce that has almost the same ingredients.

Sauce gamelyne. Take faire brede, and kutte it, and take vinegre and wyne, and stepe the brede therein, and drawe hit thorgh a streynour with powder of canel, and drawe hit twies or thries til hit be smoth; and then take pouder of ginger, Sugur, and pouder of cloues, and cast therto a litul saffron and lete hit be thik ynogh, and thenne serue hit forthe.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

This leads me to wonder if the "soupes" recipes had their origin in a misinterpretation of a camaline sauce recipe.

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 176 Haddok yn Cyve

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2015 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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176. Haddok yn Cyve
Ta Draw a haddok yn the bely yf he be large cut of the hedde & rost the body on a rost yryn till hit be ynoghe stepe brede in broth of samon or of othir god fisch draw with the broth of thyn lyvr hew percelley & do ther to a grete dele of rede wyne hole clovys macys poudyr of pepyr & a grete dele of canell & thelyver of the haddok & the pouch clene shavyn boyle hit take up the pouch & the lyver & do hit to gadyr hewyn small yn a pott & reysons of corauns safron & saunders & salt boyle hit & sesyn hit up with pouder of gynger [f.75v] and vergeys do a wey the skyn of the haddok lay hym on a chargeour poure the gyve a bovyn and serve hit forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 111 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To dight haddok in covy drawe haddok at the belly and he be large cut of the hed and rost the body on a gredirne till he be enoughe then stewe bred in the brothe of samon or other good fisshe draw liere with the brothe hew parsly put it to red wyn hole clowes maces pouder of pepper and a gooddele of canelle then tak the lever and the pouche of an haddok and hew it and put it in a possuet and raissins of corans saffron sanders and salt and boile it and sesson it with pouder and virgus put away the skyn of the haddok and lay it in a chargiour and put the covy aboue and serve it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Most recipes for fish in civey prominently include onions, but these two recipes are unusual in that they omit them.

The first word in the Wagstaff version ("Ta") is most likely a copying error.

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 175 Storgeon

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2015 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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175. Storgeon
Take a storgeon cut the vyn from the tayle to the hedde & cleve hym as a samon & cut the sydys yn fayre pecys & make the same of watyr & salt when it boyleth scome hit clene & cast the pecys ther yn & let hem boyle y nowghe then take hem up & serve hem forth with levys of percelley wete hem yn venygger cast hem in disches & the sauce ther to ys venygger.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 110 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To boile sturgion tak and cutt of the fynnys from the taile to the hed and chyne hym as a samon and cutt his fides in faire peces and mak a sauce of water and salt and when it boileth scom it clene and cast in the peces and let them boile and serve them.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is another, more detailed version in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Take a Sturgeon, and kut of the vyn fro the tayle to the hede, on the bakke; and chyne him and boyle him. And whan hit boileth, skeme it, and caste parcelly there-to, And lete hem boyle ynowe, And then take him vppe, And serue him forth colde with leves of parcelly wet in vinegre, and caste there-on in the dissh; And sauce ther-to is vinegre. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

It is notable that both the Wagstaff and Two Fifteenth-Century versions use "vyn" in place of fin.

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 174 Sole yn Brace

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2015 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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174. Sole yn Brace
Scle solys draw hem rost hem that they be ynowgh ley hem yn dyschys make brace as thy dost to the breme with sauce clovys macys & poudyr hit on & serve hit forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 109 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak a sole in brasse tak and sley soiles and draw hym and rost hym and lay hym in a dysshe and mak the same bras ye did to the breme saue clowes and maces and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The phrase "poudyr hit on" in the Wagstaff version may be a copying error for "pour it on".

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 173 Tench yn Brace

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2015 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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173. Tench yn Brace
Splay a tench by the bakke evyn thorow the hedde that the bely be hole stoch hym a lytyll ovir twarte outward in the fysch syde ley hym on a rost yron rost hym tyll he be ynowe ley hym yn a dysch the fisch syde upward take the same brace as thu dose to the breme & poure hit on & serve hit forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 108 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To dight a tenche in brasse splat hym by the bak through the hed let the belly be hole do away the draught and stoche hym a litille outwhart on the fische sid and lay them on a gredirn till they be enoughe then lay it in a disshe the fische sid upward and tak the same brase ye tok to the breme and pour ther on and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is another, more detailed version in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Tenche in brase. Take a tenche, and nape him, and slyt him in the bak thorgh the hede and taile, And drawe him; and then make sauce of water and salt. And whan hit bigynneth to boyle, skeme it clene, and cast the tenche therein, and seth him; And take him vppe, and pul of the skyn, And ley him flatte, and the bely vpwardes in a dissh. And then take percelly and oynons And hewe hem small to-giders; And cast there-to pouder of Ginger, and cast hit in vinegre; And caste all on the tenche in the dissh, and serue him forthe colde.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 172 Breme yn Brace

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2015 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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172. Breme yn Brace
Dyght a breme in the same maner take poudyr of canell a grete dele draw hit thorow a streynour with rede wyn boyle clovys macys sygure & saundres set on the fyre when hit boyleth put ther to poudyr of gynger & venygffer & vergeys loke hit be chargeaunt of poudrys lay the breme in a chargear poure the brace a boven & serve hit forthe.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 107 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To dight a breme in brasse ye shall dight hym in the same manner then tak pouder of canelle and draw theme throughe a strener with red wyn put ther to hole clowes maces pynes and sanders then set it on the fyere and when yt is boilling put ther to pouder of guinger venygar or vergius and let it be chargaut of pouders and lay the breme on a dysshe and pour on the brase and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]