Medieval Cookery: 2014

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 154 Snyte Rostyd

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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154. Snyte Rostyd
Sle hym as a plover pull hym drye let his necke be hole save his whingys let the hedde be on put the hedde in his shulder fold up his legges as thu dedyst of a crane cut of the whyngys rost hym & reyse his legges & his whyngys as of a henne & no sauce but salt.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 91 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To rost a snytte tak and slay hym as a plouer and pull him dry and let his nek be hole saue the wings and let the hed be on and put the hed in the shulder and fold up his legges as ye did a crayne and cut of his winges then rost hym and raise his winges and his leggs and shulders as a plouer and no sauce but salt. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is also a related recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Snyte rost. Capitulum Cxx. Slee a snyte as a plouere, and lete hys necke be hole saue the wesyng; and lete hys heuede be on, and putt it in the schuldre, and folde vppe his legges as a crane, and cutt his wynges and roste hym, and reyse hys legges and wynges as an henne; and no sauce butt salt. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, December 18, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 153 Plover Rostyd

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153. Plover Rostyd
Breke the nekke of a sarcell or of a tele pull hym drye draw hym as a chiken cut of his hedde his nekke & his whyngys & his fete rost hym [f.73v] reys his leggys & his whynggys as of a heyron & no sauce but salt.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 90 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To rost a plouer tak and brek his skull and drawe hym as a chekyne and cutt of his legges and his wings by the body and rost hym and raise his legges and his wings as a henne and no sauce but salt and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are also two related recipes in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Plouer rost. Capitulum Cxix. Breke the skulle of a plouere, and pull hym drye, and draw hym as a chike, and cutte the legges and the wynges by the body, and the heued and necke all-so, and roste hym, and reyse the legges and wynges as an henne: and no sauce butt salt. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Plouer. Take a plouer, and breke his skoll, and pull him dry, And drawe him as a chekon, And kutte the legges and the winges as a henne; And no sauce but salt. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

I find the instruction to break the plover's skull a bit unusual. It's the first step in all of the related recipes, where the method of slaughter is usually given, so I expect that was the preferred method for killing them.

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 152 Sarcell Rostyd

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152. Sarcell Rostyd
Breke the nekke of a sarcell or of a tele pull hym drye draw hym as a chiken cut of his hedde his nekke & his whyngys & his fete rost hym [f.73v] reys his leggys & his whynggys as of a heyron & no sauce but salt.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 89 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To rost a sarcelle brek his nek and pulle hym dry and drawe hym as a chekyn cutt of his feet his wings and his nek and rost him and raise his leggs and his wings as a heron and no sauce but salt, and serve it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is also a related recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Sorcell rosted. Take a Sorcell or a tele, and breke his necke, and pul him dry, And draw him as a chekon, and kutte off his fete and winges by the body and the nekke, and roste him, and reise his winges and his legges as a heron, if he be a Sorcell; And no sauce but salt. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 151 Rabets Rostyd

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151. Rabets Rostyd
Sle a conyng draw hym both a bove & by neth perbole hym lard hym rost hym take of his hedde & unlace hym sauce hym with gyngour vergeys & poudyr of gyngour.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 88 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To rost rabettes tak and flay them drawe them and rost them and let their heddes be on first parboile them as a cony or ye rost them and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is also a related recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Rabette rosted. Take a Rabette, and sle him, And drawe him, And lete his hede be on, as a Conyng; roste him as a Conyng, And serue him forth. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

The replacement of "slay" with "flay" in the Noble version is most likely a transcription error.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 150 Conynggys Rostyd

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150. Conynggys Rostyd
Sle a conyng draw hym both a bove & by neth perbole hym lard hym rost hym take of his hedde & unlace hym sauce hym with gyngour vergeys & poudyr of gyngour.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 87 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A conye tak and drawe hym and parboile hym rost hym and lard hym then raise his leggs and hys winges and sauce hym with venegar and pouder of guinger and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is also a related recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Conyng. Take a Conyng, fle him, And draw him aboue and byneth, And parboile him, And larde him, and roste him, And late the hede be on; And vndo him, and sauce him with sauce, ginger, And vergeous, and powder of ginger, And thenne serue hit forth. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

There are a couple of oddities here. The first is the doubling up on ginger in the Noble and Two Fifteenth-Century recipes. The Noble version doesn't do this, but has replaced the verjuice with vinegar.

The second, and more amusing, oddity is the reference in Noble to the coney's wings.

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 149 Grew Rostyd

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149. Grew Rostyd
Sle hym in the mouth as a curlew scall hym draw hym as a henne breke his leggys at the kne & take a wey the bone from the kne to the fote as an heyron & cut of the legges by the body put hym on a spitte bynd his legges as of a heyron cutt of his hedde & his neke by the body rost hym reys his leggys & his whyngys as of a heyron & no sauce but salt.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 86 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A Brewe sley him in the mouthe as a curlewe skald hym and drawe hym as an henne then brek his leggs at the kne and tak away the bone from the kne to the foot as a heron cut of the nek by the bodye then rost hym and raise his winges and his legges as a heron and no sauce but salt. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is another version of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Brewe rosted. Take a Brewe, sle him as the Curlewe, skalde him, drawe him as a hen, breke his legges at the kne, and take awey the bone fro the kne to the fote, as a heron; And kutte the winges by the body, and his hede by the body, and put him on a spitte, And bynde his legges as a heron; roste him, reyse his legges and his winges as a heron, And take no maner sauce butte salte. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

It is interesting that the mistranscription "brew" for grue occurs in both Noble and Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 148 Curlew Rostyd

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148. Curlew Rostyd
Sle hym in the mouth as a crane pull hym drye cut of the whyngys by the body draw hym as a henne fold up his fete as a egrete lett his hedde & his nekke be on take a wey the nethir lipp & the thorte putt his bill in his shulder rost hym reyse his leggys & his whyngys as of a henne & no sauce but salt.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 85 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A Curlew tak and sley him in the mouthe as a fessand pull hym dry cutt of his wings and draw hym as a henne and fold up his feet like an egret and let his hed and his nek be one and tak away the nether lipe and the throt holle and put his bille in his shuldurs and rost hym and raise his leggs and his wings as a henne and no sauce but salt. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is another version of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Curlewe rosted. Take a Curlewe, sle him as a Crane, pul him dry, kutte of the winges by the body, drawe him, dight him as a Henne, And folde vp his legges as a crane; lete his necke and his hede be on; take awey the nether lippe and throte boll, and put his hede in at his shuldur, and roste him as a Crane, and no sauuce but salte. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 147 Egrett Rostyd

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147. Egrett Rostyd
Dreke [break] his neke or cut the rofe of hys mouth as of a crane scall hym draw hym as a henne cut of his whyngys by the body foyle up his leggys as of a bitere rost hem reys up his leggys & his whyngys as of a heyron & no sauce butt salt.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 84 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

An Egret tak and brek his nek and cutt of the roof of his mouthe and scald him and draw him as a henne then cutt of his wings by the body and fold up his legs as a bittur and rost hym and raise his leggs and his wings as a heron and no sauce but salt. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are also two versions of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Egrett rost. Capitulum cxij. Breke an egrettes nekke, or cut the rofe of hys mouth, as of a crane, and scalde hym, and draw hym as an henne; and cutt of hys wynges by the body, and the heued and the necke by the body, and folde hys legges as a bitore, and rost hym: and no sauce butt salt. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Egrete rosted. Take an Egrete, sle him as a Crane, skalde him and drawe him, and kutte his winges, and folde his legges as a crane, and roste him, And serue him forth; and no sauce but salte. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 146 Bytare Rostyd

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146. Bytare Rostyd
Sle hym in the mouth as a heyron draw hym as a henne reys up his leggys as a crane let hys whyngys be on & take a wey the bone of the necke as of a heyron & putt the hedde in at the golet or in the shulder reys up his leggys & his whyngys as of a heyron & no sause but salt.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 83 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A Bittur take and sley him in the mouthe as a heron drawe him as a henne and fold up his leggs as a crayne and lett the wings be on then tak a waye the bone of the nek as ye did a heron and put the hed into the gullet or in to the shulder then raise hym and raise his leggs and his wyngs as a herone and no sauce but salt. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are also two versions of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Bitore roste. Capitulum cxj. Slee a bytour in the mouth as an heron, and draw hym as an henne, and fold vppe hys legges as a crane; and lete the wynges be on, and take the boon of the necke all awey as of an heron: and putt the hedde in the golet or in the shuldre, and rost hym; and ryse the legges and the wynges as thou dost of an heron, and no sauce butt salt: and sett hym forth. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Bytor rosted. Take a Bitour, sle him in the mouthe, skalde him, serue him in all poyntes as thou doest a Crane, but lete him haue on his winges when he is rosted, And serue him forthe. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, November 20, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 145 Heyron Rostyd

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145. Heyron Rostyd
Let a heyron blode in the bouth as a crane & cut a wey the bone in the nekke & let the hed sit styll to the sknyn of the neke draw hym at the wente do hym on a spitte & wynd the skyn of the neke a boute the spitte & putt the hed yn at the golet as of a crane & breke awey the bone fro the necke to the fonte [f.73r] and lett the skyn be still & cut a wey the whyngys by the iounte nexte the body & bynd the leggys with the skyn of his legges to the spitte rost hym reys his leggys & hys whyngys as of a crane & sauce hym with poudyr of gyngour venygour & mustard & set hym forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 82 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A heron let hym bled in the mouthe as a crayne skald hym and draw hym at the vent and cut away the bone of the nek and let the hed be on stille with the skyne of the nek and folde the nek about the broche and put the hed in at the gollet as a crayne and brek away the bone from the kne to the foot and let the skyn be hole and cut the wings at the joint next the body then put hym on a broche and bynde the leggs to the spit with the skyn of the leggs and rost hym and raise his leggs and his wings as a crayne and sauce him with vinegar mustard poudered guinger and salt and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Aside from having some of the instructions in a different order, where the Noble version has "from the knee to the foot" the Wagstaff version has "from the neck to the font". I believe the noble version is correct in this case. It is also odd that both versions appear to have the wings cut off but then go on to "raise the wings" for presentation.

There are also two versions of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Heron rost. Capitulum c.x. Take an heron, and lete hym blode in the mouth as an crane, and scalde hym and draw hym att the vent as a crane; and cutt awey the boon of the necke, and folde the necke a-boute the spite, and putt the hede ynne att the golet as a crane; and breke awey the boon fro the kne to the fote, and lete the skyn be stille, and cutt the wyng att the Joynte next the body, and putt hem on a spite: and bynde hys legges to the spyte with the skynne of the legges, and lete rost, and reyse the legges and the wynges as of a crane, and sauce hym with vynegre, and mustard, and pouudre of gyngeuere, and sett hym forth. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Heron rosted. Take a Heron; lete him blode as a crane, And serue him in al poyntes as a crane, in scalding, drawing, and kuttyng the bone of the nekke a-wey, And lete the skyn be on, and roste him and sause him as the Crane; breke awey the bone fro the kne to the fote, And lete the skyn be on. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 144 Quayle Rostyd

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144. Quayle Rostyd
Sle a quayle lard hym rost hym as a pertyrych reyse his leggys & his whinges as of a hene & no sauce but salt.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 80 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A quayle tak and sley hym and rost hym as a pertuehe and raise his legges and his wyngs as a hene and no sauce but salt and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is a corresponding recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books, but it calls for cameline sauce rather than just salt.

Quayle rosted. Take a Quayle, and sle him, And serue him as thou doest a partrich in all Degre. His Sauce is sauce gamelyne. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 143 Pertrich Rostyd

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143. Pertrich Rostyd
Sle a pertrych with a feythir in the crown of the hed pul hym drye rost hym and lard hym in the maner of a fesaunte reyse the legges & the whynges as of a hen mynse hym sauce hym with poudyr of gyngour & salt set hym on the fyre hete hym & set hym forth all hote.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 79 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A pertuehe tak a fedir and put it in to his hed and let hym dye and pulle hym dry and drawe hym and rost hym as ye wold raise the legges and wingys of an henne and mynee hym sauce hym with wyne pouder of guinger and salt and warme it on the fyere and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The Noble version makes it clear that the feather is used in killing the partridge.

As with the recipe for roast pheasant, there is a related recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books, again with significant differences in the spicing.

Partrich rosted. Take a partrich, and sle him in the nape of the hede with a fethur; dight him, larde him, and roste him as thou doest a ffesaunte in the same wise, And serue him forth; then sauce him with wyne, pouder of ginger and salt, And sette hit in a dissh on the fuyre til hit boyle; then cast powder ginger, Canell, thereon, And kutte him so; or elles ete him with sugur and Mustard. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 142 Fesaunte Rostyd

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142. Fesaunte Rostyd
Lat the fesaunt blod in the mouthe to dye pull hym drye cut a wey the hed the nekke by body & the leggys by the kne perboyle hym lard hym put his kneys in the vente & rost hym & res his leggys & his wyngys as of a heyron no sauce but salt.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 78 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A fessand let him blod in the mouth to the dethe then pull him dry and cut of the hed and the nek and the leggs from the body par boile hym and lard him then put the kneys in the vent and raft hym and raise his leggs and his wings as it were a henne and no sauce but salt. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are also two clearly related recipes in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Fesaunt rost. Capitulum cviij. Lete a fesaunt blode in the mouth, and lete hym blede to deth; and pulle hym, and draw hym, and kutt a-wey the necke by the body, and the legges by the kne, and perbuille hym, and larde hym, and putt the knese in the vent: and rost hym, and reise hym vpp, hys legges and hys wynges, as off an henne; and no sauce butt salt. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

ffesaunte rosted. Lete a ffesaunte blode in the mouthe as a crane, And lete him blede to dethe; pull him dry, kutte awey his hede and the necke by the body, and the legges by the kne, and putte the kneys in at the vente, and roste him: his sauce is Sugur and mustard. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

This last recipe is especially interesting in that it specifies seasoning the phesant with something other than salt.

Thursday, November 6, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 141 Crane Rostyd

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141. Crane Rostyd
Take a crane blod as thu dedyst a swan draw hym at the went fold up hys leggys cut of his whyngys at the joynte nexte the body wend the necke a boute the spite put the bylle yn his breste & reyse the whinges & the legges as of a gose & yf thu shalt sauce hym mynse hym fyrst & sauce hym with poudyr of gynger mustard & venygger & salt & serve forth with the sauce & yf thu wilt thu may sauce hym with sauce sylito.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 81 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

A crayne let him bled as a swann and draw hym at the vent then fold up his leggs and cut off his wings by the joint next to the body then wind the nek about the broche and put the bill in the brest against the wings and leggs as he gothe, and ye sauce hym tak and anynte hym and sauce hym with pouder of guinger mustard venygar and salt and serue it, also ye may sauce it with sauce pelito. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

One odd difference between the two is that Wagstaff instructs the reader to mince the crane before saucing it. That instruction is echoed in two other versions of the recipe from Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Crane roste. Capitulum c.vij. Take a crane, and cutt hym in the rofe of the mouth, and lete him blede to deth: and cast a-wey the blode, and schalde hym, and draw hym vndyr the wynge or att the vent, and folde vpp hys legges att the kneys vndir the thye; and cutt of the wyngys next iunte the body, and lete hym haue hys heuede and hys necke on; saue take awey the wesyng, and wynde the necke a-boute the spyte, and bynde hit, and putt the bille in the body and the golett; and reyse the wynges and the legges as of a gose; and yiff thou schalt sauce hym, mynce hym fyrst, and sauce hym withe pouudre of pepyr, and gyngeuere and mustarde, vynegre and salt, and serue hym forth. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Crane rosted. Lete a Crane blode in the mouthe as thou diddist a Swan; fold vp his legges, kutte of his winges at the ioynte next the body, drawe him, Wynde the nekke abought the spit; putte the bill in his brest: his sauce is to be mynced with pouder of ginger, vynegre, and Mustard. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

The last word of the Wagstaff and Noble versions, "sylito/pelito", is possibly a reference to pellitory (Anacyclus pyrethrum).

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 140 For to sle aner of foules

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140. For to sle aner of foules & roste hem & serve hem forth
Cut a swan in the rofe of the mouth touward the brayn of the hede & let hym blede to deth & kepe the blod to colour the chaudon with or cut the necke & let hym dye then skald hym draw hym rost hym & serve hym forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 77 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To sley a swan and allmaner of fowle and to dight them, tak a swan and cutt him in the roof of the mouthe toward the brayne of the hed and lett hym bled to dethe then kep the blod to colour the chaudron and knyt the nek and let him dye then skald hym drawe hym rost him and serue hym with chaudron. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

While the title of the Wagstaff version was clearly copied in error, I find it interesting that the Wagstaff recipe correctly separates the methods of killing the swan with an "or" where the Noble version has "and".

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 139 Caudell of Almondys

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139. Caudell of Almondys
Grynd almondys blaunchyd & temper hem up with wyne or with ale & draw hit thorow a streynour do hit in a pott & do to sigure or hony claryfyd & safron & set hit on the fyre stere hit well as sone as hit be gynneth to boyle take hit of & serve hit forth & yf thu wilt cast a lytyll poudyr if gynger.

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Caudle recipes are fairly common in medieval cookbooks, including two in A Noble Boke off Cookry, but none are a close match for this version.

To mak cawdelle dalmond tak unblanched almondes and bray them and draw them with wyne put ther to pouder of guinger and sugur and boile all to gedur and colore it with saffron and salt it and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

To mak a cawdelle of almondes tak blanched almondes and draw them up with wyne put ther to saffron and salt and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Cawdelle de Almaunde. Take Raw Almaundys, and grynde hem, an temper hem vp with gode ale, and a lytil Water, and draw it thorw a straynoure in-to a fayre potte, and late it boyle a whyle: and caste ther-to Safroun, Sugre, and Salt, and than serue it forth al hotte in maner of potage. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Caudell de Almondes. Take rawe almondes, and grinde hem, And temper hem with goode ale and a litul water; and drawe hem thorgh a streynour into a faire potte, and lete hit boyle awhile; And cast there-to saffron, Sugur and salt, and serue hit forth hote. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 138 A Colde Bakyn Mete

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138. A Colde Bakyn Mete
Grynd reysons & yf thu wilte thu may boyle fegys & grynd hem ther with & temper hem up ther with sewte wyne as chargeaunt as thu may do ther to clovys macys pynes corauns datys mynsyd sygure & salt set hit on the fyre stere hit well when hit boyleth take hit of have small cofyns with low brerdys bakyn by fore & endore the brerdys with & fyll hem with safron & syryp & florych hit with anneys in confite & yf thu wilte thu may take cornels of walchnotys pike of thy skyn make hem as clene as thu may and as white he in a lytyll safron watyr set a pyn or a nedyll in hem & hold hem upryght in thy hond let not hem be to wete & ley goldfayle with that othir hond with a thyng made ther fore & blow ther on esyly with thy mouth & that shall make thy gold to a byde & so thu may gylt ovir & florich thy bakyn mete ther [f.72v] with and so thu may florich eny colde mete that ys bakyn & thu may make hit in a potage yf thu wilt that ys colde.

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I could not find any recipes similar to this one. What's more, the detailed instructions for using gold leaf are unique among the cookbooks I've worked with.

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 137 A Bakyn Mete Opyn

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137. A Bakyn Mete Opyn
Take the kedneys of a calfe with the swet & some dele of the flesch with all tendyr sodyn hew hit small do hit in a vessell coyle hit with creme of cow mylke sygure & good poudres & poudres of clovis safron & salt & do hit in small cofyns & bake hit as thu dedyst flathons.

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The title of this recipe was appended to the body of the previous one in the manuscript, which makes it easy to miss.

This is an odd little recipe with no close match in contemporary cookbooks.

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 136 Bakyn Mete on Fisch Dayes

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136. Bakyn Mete on Fisch Dayes
Take lamprons strip hem well with a lynyn cloth so that they be clene boyle hem in watyr salt venyger that they be ynow & taylle hem well in watyr & [?] salt & ley hem in the cofyn take a thike mylke of almondys drawn up with fayre watyr or with broth of fysch do to poudyr folyes of percelley salt & venyger set hem in the oven & fil hem up ther with.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 76 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak bak metes on fysshe days tak lamprons and strip them with a cloth till they be clene and boile them in watur salt and venegar and labur hem welle in pouder and salt and lay them in coffins then tak a thyk mylk of almonds and draw it up with faire watir or with the brothe of fisshe put ther to pouder sugur and foilis of padley venegar and salt and set them in the ovene and fill them up ther with and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

While there are many other recipes for baked lampreys, none of them are as short and simple as these.

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 135 Leche fryed

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135. Leche fryed
Take tendyr chese cut hit in shivers do hit in hote skallyng watyr when hit rennyth & yelleth to gedyr do a wey the watyr as clene as thu may & do ther ro claryfydd buttur al hote a grete dele & claryfyed hony & tayl hit well to gadyr with yolkes of eyron have cofyns with low bredrreys as thin as thu may draw hem put yn some stuf that the botom be helyd & let hem bake esyly & serve hem forth.

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This recipe is clearly related to recipe 75 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak lesche freey tak and cutt tenches in sshevers and put it in hot skaldinge watur and when it rynnyth and yeldithe to gedure ye may do away the watir clene and and put it to clarified buttur hot a gret dele and hony clarified and toile them to gedur with yolks of eggs then tak brod coffyns with lowe lidds as thyn as ye may dryf them and fill them with the stuf and bak them and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The most notable difference between the two is that where Wagstaff calls for cheese, Noble has a type of fish (tench). The use of cheese in the recipe is supported by another version from Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Lese fryes. Take nessh chese, and pare it clene, and grinde hit in a morter small, and drawe yolkes and white of egges thorgh a streynour, and cast there-to, and grinde hem togidre; then cast thereto Sugur, butter and salt, and put al togidre in a coffyn of faire paast, And lete bake ynowe, and then serue it forthe. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

It is likely that the difference between the Wagstaff and Noble versions is a copying error where "neshchese" was taken as "tenches". It is also possible that it is a transcription error on the part of Ms. Napier when transcribed Noble back in 1882.

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 134 Harbelet opyn

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134. Harbelet opyn
Smyte buttes of pork in pecys boyle hem in fayre watyr that they be ynowghe then do hem on a borde & do awey the skyn & the bonys hew hit small do hit in a fayre boll take ysope sage & percelly a grete quantite pike hit hew hit do hit in a vessell take fat of the same broth & do ther to boyle hit a lytyll & do to the flesch mynsyd datys clovis macys reysons of corauns pynes poudyr of gynger safron & salt & draw yolkes of eyron thorow a streynour put to sugure cull hem well to gedyr make rownd cofyns hardyn hem a lytyll in the oven then take hem out fill hem with a dysch full of the stuf set hem in the oven all opynly let hem bake thorow & serve hem forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 74 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak hairblad opyne tak Buttes of pork and smyt them to peces boille them in faire water till they be enough do it on a bord and put away the skyne and the bones and hewe it small and put it in a fair bolle then tak parsly ysope and saige and hewe it smale and put it in a bolle do ther to fat of the brothe and boile them and put ther to the fleshe mynced dates clowes mace raissins of corans saffron salt pouder of guinger yolks of eggs and draw them throughe a strener and labour it to gedure welle and mak round coffins and hardyn them in an oven then tak them up and fill them with a dysshe with the stuf and set them in the ovene all opyne and let them bak and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are also two recipes from Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books that are very similar.

xxxj - Herbelade. Take Buttes of Porke, and smyte hem in pecys, and sette it ouer the fyre; and sethe hem in fayre Watere; and whan it is y-sothe y-now, ley it on a fayre bord, and pyke owt alle the bonys, and hew it smal, and put it in a fayre bolle; than take ysope, Sawge, Percely a gode quantite, and hew it smal, and putte it on a fayre vesselle; than take a lytel of the brothe, that the porke was sothin in, and draw thorw a straynoure, and caste to the Erbys, and 3if it a boyle; thenne take owt the Erbys with a Skymoure fro the brothe, and caste hem to the Porke in the bolle; than mynce Datys smal, and caste hem ther-to, and Roysonys of Coraunce, and Pyne3, and drawe thorw a straynoure 3olkys of Eyroun ther-to, and Sugre, and pouder Gyngere, and Salt, and coloure it a lytel with Safroune; and toyle yt with thin hond al thes to-gederys; than make fayre round cofyns, and harde hem a lytel in the ovyn; than take hem owt, and wyth a dyssche in thin hond, fylle hem fulle of the Stuffe; than sette hem ther-in a-3en; and lat hem bake y-now, and serue forth. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Herbe-blade. Take buttes of Porke, and smyte hem in peces, and sette hit on the fire, and seth it in faire water; And whan hit is soden y-nogh, take it oute, and baude hit, and pike oute the bones, and hewe it small, and putte hit in a faire boll. And take Isop, Sauge, and parcelly a goode quantite; pike hit, and hewe hit small, And put hit in faire vessellez; And take a litul of the broth that the porke was soden yn, and drawe hit thorgh a streynour, and caste to the erbeblade, and yef hit a boyle; then take oute the herbes with a Skymour fro the broth, And cast hem into the porke in the bolle; And then myce faire dates small, And caste hem there-to, And reysons of coraunce, and pynes; And draw rawe yolkes of egges thorgh a straynour, and caste thereto Sugur, powder of Ginger, salt; colour hit with a litull saffron; And trull hit with thi honde, al this togidur in the bolle; And then make faire rownde cofyns, and put hem in the oven, and hard hem a litull, and take hem oute ayen, and with a dissh in thi honde, fil hem full of the stuffe, and sette hem ayen in the oven al open, And let hem bake ynowe. And thenne serue hit forth. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 133 Losyngys opyn

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133. Losyngys opyn
Make a past with paryd floure knedyn with watyr sigure safron & salt make hem in foyles then cut thy losyngs of the breed of thy hond or less frye hem in good oyle & serve hem forth foure or fyve yn a dysche.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 73 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak lossenges fried in lent make a paiste of pured flour knodden with faire water sugur saffron and salt then mak a thyn foile in lossengis the bred of your hond or lese and fry them in oile and serue them iij or iiij in a dysshe. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The difference in titles is a bit unusual. The lack of dairy and eggs clearly marks this as a Lenten recipe, so the title of the Noble version isn't exceptional. However there is noting in the recipe that suggests "open" rather than "closed."

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 132 Brinddy

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132. Brinddy
Put wyne in to a pott & claryfydd hony saundres poudyr of pepyr canell clovis macys pynes datys mynsyd & reysons of corauns & cast ther to a lytyll venyggour set hit on the fyre lete hit boyle seth fygys in wyn grynd hem & draw hem thorow a streynour & cast ther to & let hem boyle to gedyr then take floure saferon sigure & salt make ther of kakes let hem be thyn ynowghe then cut hem lyke lysyngys & fry hem in oyle then put hem in to the syrip & loke the syrip be rennyng & serve hit forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 71 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak Breney, put wyne in a pot and clarified hony saunders canelle peper clowes maces pynes dates mynced raissins of corans put ther to vinegar and sett it on the fyer. and let it boile then sethe fegges in wyne grind them and draw them through a strener and cast ther to and let them boile to gedur then tak flour saffron sugur and faire water and mak ther of faire cakes and let them be thyne then cut them bigge lassengis wise and fry them in oile a stonding sewe for sopers and strawe ther on annes in comfets and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are also two versions of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Prenade. Take wyn, and put hit in a potte, and clarefied honey, sawndres, pouder of peper, Canel, Clowes, Maces, Saffron, pynes, myced dates, and reysons, And cast thereto a litul vinegre, and sette hit ouer the fire, and lete hit boyle; and seth figges in wyn and grynde hem, and draw hem thorgh a streynour, and cast thereto, and let boile al togidre. And then take floure, saffron, sugur, and faire water, and make faire kakes, and late hem be thyn ynogh; And then kutte hem like losinges; And then caste hem in faire oyle, and fry hem a litul while; And then take hem vp oute of the pan, and caste hem to the wessell with the sirippe, altogidre, in a dissh; And therefore thi sirripe most be rennyng ynow, and no3t to stiff; and so serue it forth fore a good potage, in faire disshes all hote. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Bryndons. Take Wyn, and putte in a potte, an clarifiyd hony, an Saunderys, pepir, Safroun, Clowes, Maces, and Quybibys, and mynced Datys, Pynys and Roysonys of Corauns, and a lytil Vynegre, and sethe it on the fyre; an sethe fygys in Wyne, and grynde hem, and draw hem thorw a straynoure, and caste ther-to, an lete hem boyle alle to-gederys; than take fayre flowre, Safroun, Sugre, and Fayre Water, ande make ther-of cakys, and let hem be thinne Inow; than kytte hem y lyke lechyngys, (Note: long thin strips) an caste hem in fayre Oyle, and fry hem a lytil whyle; thanne take hem owt of the panne, an caste in-to a vesselle with the Syrippe, and so serue hem forth, the bryndonys an the Sirippe, in a dysshe; and let the Sirippe be rennyng, and not to styf. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

The name of the Noble version, Breny, may be a crude reference to the recipe's appearance. The word "bren" in Middle French could be translated as "excrement."

Monday, September 22, 2014

The Bard's Tale

If you're at all interested in fiction, I've just set up a Kickstarter project for a new anthology - The Bard's Tale. It's a collection of short stories and recipes by a great group of authors, edited by yours truly.

Not all the recipes in it are medieval, which is only fitting because not all of the stories are set in a traditional medieval fantasy setting. Still, it should be a fun book for readers who like to cook.

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 131 Pyes of Pares

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131. Pyes of Pares
Smyte fayre buttes of porke & of vele to gedyr & put hit in a pot with fresch broth & a quantite of wyne boyle all to gedyr tyl hit be ynow then put hit in a clene vessell put ther to raw yolkes of eyron poudyr of gynger sigure & salt mynsyd & reysons of corauns & make a fayre thin past & cofyns & do ther yn thy stuf & let hit bake y nowe & then serve hit forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 72 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak pyes of pairis tak and smyt fair buttes of pork and buttes of vele and put it to gedure in a pot with freshe brothe and put ther to a quantite of wyne and boile it tille it be enoughe then put it in to a treene vesselle and put ther to raw yolks of eggs pouder of guinger sugur salt and mynced dates and raissins of corans and mak a good thyn paiste and mak coffyns and put it ther in and bak it welle and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

As with the recipe for Possote, there is an interesting word substitution. The word "clene" (clean) in the Wagstaff version is given as "treene" (tree-en, i.e. wooden) in Noble.

There is also a version of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

Pies of Parys. Take and smyte faire buttes of porke and buttes of vele togidre, and put hit in a faire potte, And putte thereto faire broth, And a quantite of Wyne, And lete all boile togidre til hit be ynogh; And then take hit fro the fire, and lete kele a litel, and cast ther-to raw yolkes of eyren, and pouudre of gyngeuere, sugre and salt, and mynced dates, reysyns of corence: make then coffyns of feyre past, and do it ther-ynne, and keuere it and lete bake y-nogh. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 130 To Make a Possote

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130. To Make a Possote
Do cow mylke in a pott ovir the fyre when hit ys at boylyng putt in wyne or ale & no salt take hit from the fyre hele hit as sone as the crud ys gaderyd take uppe crud with a saucer or with a ladyell serve hit forth & strew on poudyr of gynger yf thu wilte thu may take the same crud & ley hit on a bord & presse out the whey & draw hit twyys or iij thorow a streynour with swete wyne put to poudyr of gynger & segure & medyll hit well to gedyr & serve hit forth as for a stondyng potage for soperys.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 70 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak a posthot, put cow mylk in a pan and set it on the fyer and when it is at boiling do ther in other wyne or ale and no salt then tak it from the fyer and kele it and assone as the curddes gaddure take up the curddes with a saucer or a ladille and serue it and straw ther on pouder of ginger and ye may tak the sam curdde and lay it on the clothe and presse out the wyne and drawe it through a strener with swet wyne put ther to pouder of guinger and sugur and mele it to gedure and serue it as a stonding sewe for sopers and straw ther on anise in comfettes. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

One of the minor but interesting differences is that the Wagstaff version has "presse out the whey" where the Noble version has "presse out the wyne".

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 129 Prmeroll at pasche

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129. Prineroll at pasche
Take blanch almondys & the floures of primeroll grynd hem temper hem up with swete wyne & with a perty of swete broth draw hit unto a thike mylke do hit in a pott sygure & salt & a lytyll safron that hit have the same colour as the primroll hath boyle hit & but hit be stondyng a ley hit with floure of ryse & serve forthe as stondyng potage & strew on primroll abovyn thu may yf thu wilt daperte hit in the disches dryssyng with rape ryall or with some othir stondyng sewe in.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 69 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak prymerolle in pasthe tak blanched almondes and flour of prymerose grind it and temper it with swet wyne and good brothe drawinge into the thik mylk put it into a pot with sugur salt and saffron that it haue colour lik prymerolle and boile it that it be stondinge and alay it with flour of rise and serue it as a standinge potage and strawe ther on flour of prymerolle aboue and ye may diaper it with rape rialle in dressinge of some other sewe. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is also a recipe for primrose in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books that is clearly related.

Cviij - Prymerose. Take other half-pound of Flowre of Rys, .iij. pound of Almaundys, half an vnce of hony and Safroune, and take the flowres of the Prymerose, and grynd hem, and temper hem vppe with Mylke of the Almaundys, and do pouder Gyngere ther-on: boyle it, and plante thin skluce with Rosys, and serue forth. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

The description of the dish as "stonding" indicates an extremely thick dish, like very thick oatmeal. The instruction at the end of the Wagstaff and Noble versions to diaper (decorate all over) with a second recipe appears unique to these two cookbooks. Note that this second dish, Rape Royal, is likely a sweet, thick sauce of raisins and figs.

The name of the recipes suggests a dish to me made around Easter (Pasch), which makes sense given the lack of eggs and the use of flower petals.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 128 Darrolete

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128. Darrolete
Take fysch mynsyd & almond mylke made with wyne & mynsyd brede saundres hony reysons poudres & safron medyl al to gedyr so that hit be thikke do hit in cofyns & bake hit in maner of flathyns.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 68 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak dariolites tak mynced fisshe and almond mylk mad with wyne and mynced bred sanders saffron raissins of corans hony and pouder and mele all to gedur so that it be thik and put it in the coffyn and bak it in the manner of flawnes and serue it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are numerous recipes in other sources for Dariols, but the Wagstaff and Noble versions are the only ones I've found that include minced fish.

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 127 Chauet yn fysch dayes

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127. Chauet yn fysch dayes
Take base melet or samon raw & take the fisch clene fro the bonys chop hit in pecys & couch hit in coffyns and eles with all take ther to all materes as thu dede to the noyte abovyn save on make thy syryp of thikke mylke of almondys as thu made that othir save yolkes [f.71v] of eyron set the coffyns in the oven fyl hem up with the serip & yf thu wile fry the fisch.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 67 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak chewettes on fische dais tak molet freshe samon or bace rawe clef them frome the bone and chope them in peces and couche them in coffins put eles ther to and othere metes as ye did be for and mak a ceripe of thik almond mylk all saue the juce of eggs then set the coffins in the ovon and fille them fulle of good ceripe and ye may fry the fische and serue it furthe. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Thursday, August 21, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 126 Bakyn chikenes

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126. Bakyn chikenes
Take chikenes clene skallyd trusse a sort as thu corouryst hem with wergeys safron & good poudyres couch hem in cofyns take salt lard of porke dysyd smal & medelyd with vergeys safron & salt & couch hem in the cofyns close hem & bake hem & serve hem forth.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 65 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To bak chekyns tak chekins clene skaldid and truse them as short as ye may colour them with saffron and salt them then couche them in coffins and take salt lard of pork and dice it smale and melleit with vergious saffron and good poudurs and couche them in coffins and close them and bak them and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Thursday, August 7, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 125 Chauet Ryall

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125. Chauet Ryall
Take marye cut yn grete gobets & couch hit in smal cofynnys & small bryddys perboyle also ther with also and yf thu wilte rabets & datys cut grete sigure vergeys safron & salt loke hit stond well by the marye put to pousyr gyngour poudour lumbard close hem bake hem & serve hem forth.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 66 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak chewettes rialle cutt mary in small peces and couche it in smale coffins with smale birdes parboiled or rabettes and dates put ther to sugur salt vergious and saffron and luk it stond welle by mary put ther to pouder of guinger and other good pouders then close them bak them and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

None of the recipes for chewetts that I could find in the other medieval sources uses this particular combination of ingredients.

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 124 Chauet of Beef

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124. Chauet of Beef
Take befe cut small do ther to poudyr of gyngour clovis & othir good poudrys grapys vergys safron & salt toylyd to gedyr do chikenys choppyd in coffyns & yolkes brockyd & cromyd small bake hem & serve hem forth.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 64 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak chewettes of beef tak beef and cutt it smalle and do ther to pouder of guinger clowes and other good poudurs grapes vergius saffron and salt and toile them welle to gedure put chekins chopped in coffins and yolks of eggs brok smale and bak them and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is a similar recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books for Chewetts, but it doesn't call for the chicken as the Noble and Wagstaff versions do.

Chawettys. Take buttys of Vele, and mynce hem smal, or Porke, and put on a potte; take Wyne, and caste ther-to pouder of Gyngere, Pepir, and Safroun, and Salt, and a lytel verthous, and do hem in a cofyn with 3olkys of Eyroun, and kutte Datys and Roysonys of Coraunce, Clowys, Mace3, and then ceuere thin cofyn, and lat it bake tyl it be y-now. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, July 31, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 123 Crustad lumbard

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123. Crustad lumbard
Make large cofynys take datys pyke out the skynnys & yf thu wilte thu may cut thy datys or els stop hem with blanch poudyr with yn & do ther to grete gobets of marye & couch ther yn rabets with the marye & small bryddys perboylyd well in fat broth & couch in ther to clovis macys reysons of corauns & fry pynes & strew theron & set hem yn ther own syrip of creme of cowmylke yolkes of eyron & good poudyr sygure saundres safron & salt fyl hem ther with and on fisch days boyle wardons tendyr or othir perys pare hem & hole hem at the crown fil hem full of blaunch poudyr & turne yn the pouydyr of gyngour that the poudyr lese ther yn & set hem in cofyns & the stalkes upward & yf thu wilte thu may turne hem that they be hid yn bature & fry hem or thu couch hem let no flesch come ther to make thy syripe of thicke mylke of almondys make up thu crustardys as thu dedyst on fisch days when they be bake yf thu wilte thy may gylte the stalkys of the perys & syve hem forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 62 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak custad lombard mak a large coffyn then tak dates from the stones tak gobettes of mary and smalle birdes and parboile them in salt brothe and couche ther in then tak clowes mace and raisins of corans and pynes fryed and strawe ther on and sett them in the oven to bak and luk ye haue a coup of cowes creme yolks of eggs good pouderes saffron sanderes and salt then fill the coffins ther with, and on fishe daies boille wardens or other peres paire them and hole them at the crown then fill them full of blaunche poudur and torn them in blaunche poudur and skoche them all about that the pouder may abid ther in then set the stalks upryght and ye may mak your coup of creme of almondes and shak up your custad as ye did of flesche and when they be bak gilt the stalkes of the peres and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is a recipe for "Custard Lombard" in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books, but the wording is significantly different.

Custard lumbarde. Take good creme, and ffoiles of and yolkes And white of egges, and breke hem thereto, and streyne hem all thorgh a straynour till hit be so thik that it woll bere him self; And take faire Mary, And Dates, cutte in ij. or iij. and prunes, and put hem in faire coffyns of paast; And then put the coffyn in an oven, And lete hem bake till thei be hard, And then drawe hem oute, and putte the licoure into the Coffyns, And put hem into the oven ayen, And lete hem bake till they be ynogh, but cast sugur and salt in thi licour whan ye putte hit into the coffyns; And if hit be in lenton, take creme of Almondes, And leve the egges And the Mary. [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 122 Pyes of flesch capons and fesaunttes

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122. Pyes of flesch capons and fesaunttes
Take good beef & sethe ther with pork wele or venyson hewyn small do ther to [f.71r] poudyr of pepyr canell poudyr of clovis gyngour & mynsyd datys yf thu wilee & reysons of coraunce & medyll hit with venyggour safron & salt & take hit in thy moneys if hit be welle sesond than couch hit in large cofyns & close yn capons or fesauntes hole or yf thu wilte cut hit in pecys colour hem well with safron & put ther yn othir wylde foule what thu wilte & plant hit with half yolkes of eyron & strew on clovis macys & datys mynsyd corans & quibibis close hem & bake hem longe & sokingly & serve hem forth with the fyrst cource.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 61 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak pyes of flesche of capon or of fessand tak good beef pork vele and venison hew it smalle do ther to pork of peper clowes maces guinger and mynced dates and raissins of corans mete it with malmsey or vergius and cast in saffron and salt and luk it be welle sessoned then couch it in a large coffyne and couch in the capon or fessand hole and if ye wille smyt them in peces and colour them with saffron and put in it other wild foule if ye wille and plant ther in hard yolks of egges and strawe on clowes maces dates mynced raissins of corrans quybibes then close them up and bak them and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The combination of capon and pheasant in a pie, along with the other meats listed, is unusual. I have not found any related recipes in other contemporary sources.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 121 Bakyn purpays

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121. Bakyn purpays
Poudyr purpays perboyle hit well strip the skyn of take poudyr of pepyr canel yf hit be nede medyll hit with the fysch close hit up with foulys of past & bake hit venyson in the same maner.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 60 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To bak porpas sturgion or turbot tak poudred porpas and parboile it welle and stripe of the skyn and tak pouder of pepper and canelle. and it be ned meld it well with the fische then close it up in the foile or paiste and bak it, and ye may tak venyson in the sam manner. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The reference to venison is noteworthy in that porpoise was the common fish-day substitution for venison, to the point that many recipes for porpoise call for it to be served with frumenty, which is the typical side dish for venison.

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 120 Tartelets

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120. Tartelets
Take small cofynys in the same maner as thu madyst that othir make thy stuf of boylyd fyges & spycys what thu wilte or yf thu wilte fisch or flesch & sesyn hit up in the same maner & fyll youre cofyns ther with ye may fry hem bake hem whethir ye wilt.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 59 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak tartalettes, mak smalle coffins in the same manner as ye did the tother and mak your stuf of boylled figges ground and good powdure and spices and put ther to other fische or fleshe and sesson it up in the same manner and fille the coffins ther with and ye may fry them or bak them whedure ye wille and serue them. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Thursday, June 19, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 119 Tartes of Flesch

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119. Tartes of Flesch
Take porke sodyn pyke hit clene from thy bonys grynd hit small boyle fyggys in the broth of the flesch or yn wyn or in ale hew hit & grynd hit with eyron pare tendyr chese grynd hit to gedyr that the most perte stond by the flesch & the lest by the chese take pynes & reysons fry hem in a quantite of fresch grece & do hit in that othir with hole clowys macys & poudyr of pepyr & canell a grete dele & poudyr of gynger & sygure claryfyd or hony claryfyd safron & salt toyl hit well togedyr tyl thy grece be hote then make brode cofnys with the brerdys as thyn as thu may make hem thu nay chese of clovys or mynsyd datys whethir thu wilte medyl hem with the stuff or els strew hem above & ley on the ledys close hem & thu may put ther yn lyghte worke & make endoryng with mylke of almondys & safron & endore hem or thu bake hem.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 58 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To mak tartes of fleshe tak pork and pik out the bones and grind it smale then boile figges in the freche brothe of flesche of wyne or of ale hewe it and grind it with egge then paire tender ches and grind ther with and let the most part stand by flesche then tak pynes and raissins and fry them a litille in grece and put it to the other with hole clowes maces poudur of pepper and cannele a goodele of guinger saffron sugur or hony clarified then salt it and toile them welle to gedur while the grece is hot, and mak gret coffynes with lowe liddes and ye may strawe ther to clowes maces and mynced dates whedur ye wille mold them with the stuf or strawe them aboue, and lay on the liddes wild werks and endor them with mylk of almondes and saffron and endore them as ye bak them and serue them furthe. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 118 Fresch lamprey bakyn

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118. Fresch lamprey bakyn
Take lamprey do hem in a pott do ther to a porcyon of rede wyne & stop the pott a bovyn that the lepe nought out when he ys endyng take hym out & put hym in scaldyng watyr & take hym in a lynnen cloth in thy hond & a handfull of hey in that othir hond & strip hem well that alle the glame go a wey & save the skyn hole then wesch hym & kepe hym clene & cut hym a lytyll over twarte a straw brede by fore the navyll so that the stryng be lose then slete hym a lytyll at the throte & take out the stryng & save the blode in a vessell yf he be a female thrist hym in thy honde from the navill upward so that the spaune come out there that take out the stryngys yf thu wilte bone hym slyte hym a lytyll in the same place with yn so that thu may come to the bone & louse the bone with a pyke fro thy fysch & as esyly as thu may drawe awey the bone fro thy tayle that hit come out hole & wynd the bone aboughte youre hond & alwey as hit comith out w wynd hit up & gedyr hit out hole aftyrward othe ch thy lamprey outward over the bake syde eche pece iij fyngerys brode ofn lynye so that hit hold to gedyr & toyle hym well in his oune blode yf thu wilte make thyn be somdele brown & take good wyn to the bakyng of the lamprey & halfe pynte will one to youre brede theryn draw hit make hit nought to chargeaunt yf thu wilte thu may draw a few reysons & draw hit up with than loke the fiste paerte be venygger do ther to poudyr of canell a grete dele poudyr of galentyn poudyr lumbard poudyr gynger sawndres sigure saffron & salt yf thu wilt lev [f.70v] hit be thyn brown & yolowe make thy colour more of saundres make a large kosyne of paryd floure do youre lamprey ther yn & poure in galentyne so that hit stond as hye as the lamprey loke hit have a good lyde & a wete the brerdys al a boute & ley uppon put a penne by twyne the lede & the cofine & close hit al aboute till you come to the penne then blow thy penne that the syde ryse al aboute then take out thy penne close hit fast then have a good pele & sethit esyly on the oven & bake hit esyly & longe sokyng To make soppys in galentyn in a vessell & put ther to wyn & medle hit to gedyr till hit be smoth do sigure and yf hit nede put to more poudyr & medyll in fere that hit be somdele thyn then put hit in a pott of erthe set hit on colys of fyre tyll hit be at boylyng & stere hit well have white brede cut yn shyvers as brewys & tost hit a lytyll & then bast hit & poure some of the same galentyn in the same cofyne so that hit may wete the botom & couch ther some of youre brede & poure yn more galentyne then couche yn the remnaunt of youre brede & couch yn the remnaunt of youre galentyne & ley on the lede & serve hit forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 55 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.

To bak a freche lampry tak and put a quyk lampry in a pot put ther to a porcyon of red wyne then stop the pot close that he lep not out and when he is dyinge tak him out and put hym in skaldinge water then tak hym in your handes with alyn clothe and a handfull of hay in the tother hand and strik hym so that the skyn go away and saue him hole then weshe hym and cut hym out whart a straw brod from the naville so that the stringe be lowse, then slitt hym a litill at the throt and tak out the string and kep the blode in a vesselle and it be a female thrust in your hand from the naville upwards so that the spawn com out ther as ye tak out the stringe and ye will boile it salt it a littill in the same place within that ye may cum and lowse the bone with a prik from the fische and brek it a litill from the hed and slit hym a litill from the taille then put the prik betwene the bone and the fische and drawe the bone from the taille as esly as ye may that it cum out all hole from the taile then wind the bone about thy finger and drawe it out softly for breking and so ye shall tak it out hole then chope the lampry o[u with curl] twhart the bak eury pece iij fingers brode and let them hold to gedure and toile them welle in the blod, and ye will mak your galentyn of crust of white bred cutt it in schyves and toiste it on a gredirne that it be somdelle broun and tak a quart of good red wyne for the bakinge of the lampry and put the bred ther in and drawe it and mak it not chargaunt and ye will ye may grind a fewe of raissins and mak it up ther with and let the fyft part be venygar put ther to pouder of cannelle a gretdele, pouder galingalle pouder lombard pouder of guinger sugur saffron and salt and let it be be tweene braun and yallowe and mak thy colour of sanders then mak a large coffyn of pured floure and put thy lampry ther in and put in the galentyn that it stand as highe as the lampery and let it haue a good lide and wet the bredes round about and lay it in the coffyn and close it round about to the pen for ye must haue a pen betweene the lidd and the coffyne to blow the pen that the lid may rise welle and luk the ovene be hoot and set it in to it. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is also a similar recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.

xxiij - Lamprays bake. Take and make fayre round cofyns of fyne past, and take Freyssche lampreys, and late hem blode .iij. fyngerys with-in the tayle, and lat hem blede in a vesselle, and late hym deye in the same vesselle in the same blode; than take broun Brede, and kyt it, and stepe it in the Venegre, and draw thorw a straynoure; than take the same blode, and pouder of Canel, and cast ther-to tyl it be broun; than caste ther-to pouder Pepir, Salt, and Wyne a lytelle, that it be no3t to strong of venegre. An skald the Lampray, and pare hem clene, and couche hym round on the cofyn, tyl he be helyd; than kyuere hym fayre with a lede, saue a lytel hole in the myddelle, and at that hool, blow in the cofynne with thin mowthe a gode blast of Wynde. And sodenly stoppe the hole, that the wynd a-byde with-ynne, to reyse vppe the cofynne, that he falle nowt a-dowune; and whan he is a lytel y-hardid in the ouen, pryke the cofyn with a pynne y-stekyd on a roddys ende, for brekyng of the cofynne, and than lat bake, and serue forth colde. And when the lamprey is take owt of the cofynne and etyn, take the Syrippe in the cofynne, and put on a chargere, and caste Wyne ther-to, an pouder Gyngere, and lat boyle in the fyre. Than take fayre Paynemayn y-wette in Wyne, and ley the soppis in the cofynne of the lamprey, and ley the Syrippe a-boue, and ete it so hot; for it is gode lordys mete [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 117 Wellyd pepyr for rostyd veele

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117. Wellyd pepyr for rostyd veele
Cut brede in shivys tost hem on a roste yryn that hit be somdele broun yf thu wylte thu may grate hit or els temper hit wyn or with ale & draw hit thorow a streynour that hit be somdele thike put ther to poudyr of pepyr & a lytyl safron boyle hit & serve hit forth hot loke hit have a taste of venyggour.

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This recipe is a close match for recipe 57 from A Noble Boke off Cookry, which is an interruption after a 16-recipe run of duplicates.

To mak wellid peper for rost vele tak and cutt bred in schyves and toist it upon a gridirne that it be somdele broun and ye may grat it and temper it with wyne or ale and drawe it throughe a strener that it be somdele thik put ther to pouder and saffron and boile it and serue it hot but let it haue a taist of venygar. [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Simple pepper sauces for veal are reasonably common, but "Welled Pepper" appears to be unique to Noble and Wagstaff.

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