Thursday, June 19, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 119 Tartes of Flesch


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

119. Tartes of Flesch
Take porke sodyn pyke hit clene from thy bonys grynd hit small boyle fyggys in the broth of the flesch or yn wyn or in ale hew hit & grynd hit with eyron pare tendyr chese grynd hit to gedyr that the most perte stond by the flesch & the lest by the chese take pynes & reysons fry hem in a quantite of fresch grece & do hit in that othir with hole clowys macys & poudyr of pepyr & canell a grete dele & poudyr of gynger & sygure claryfyd or hony claryfyd safron & salt toyl hit well togedyr tyl thy grece be hote then make brode cofnys with the brerdys as thyn as thu may make hem thu nay chese of clovys or mynsyd datys whethir thu wilte medyl hem with the stuff or els strew hem above & ley on the ledys close hem & thu may put ther yn lyghte worke & make endoryng with mylke of almondys & safron & endore hem or thu bake hem.

-=-=-

This recipe is a close match for recipe 58 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak tartes of fleshe tak pork and pik out the bones and grind it smale then boile figges in the freche brothe of flesche of wyne or of ale hewe it and grind it with egge then paire tender ches and grind ther with and let the most part stand by flesche then tak pynes and raissins and fry them a litille in grece and put it to the other with hole clowes maces poudur of pepper and cannele a goodele of guinger saffron sugur or hony clarified then salt it and toile them welle to gedur while the grece is hot, and mak gret coffynes with lowe liddes and ye may strawe ther to clowes maces and mynced dates whedur ye wille mold them with the stuf or strawe them aboue, and lay on the liddes wild werks and endor them with mylk of almondes and saffron and endore them as ye bak them and serue them furthe.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 118 Fresch lamprey bakyn


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

118. Fresch lamprey bakyn
Take lamprey do hem in a pott do ther to a porcyon of rede wyne & stop the pott a bovyn that the lepe nought out when he ys endyng take hym out & put hym in scaldyng watyr & take hym in a lynnen cloth in thy hond & a handfull of hey in that othir hond & strip hem well that alle the glame go a wey & save the skyn hole then wesch hym & kepe hym clene & cut hym a lytyll over twarte a straw brede by fore the navyll so that the stryng be lose then slete hym a lytyll at the throte & take out the stryng & save the blode in a vessell yf he be a female thrist hym in thy honde from the navill upward so that the spaune come out there that take out the stryngys yf thu wilte bone hym slyte hym a lytyll in the same place with yn so that thu may come to the bone & louse the bone with a pyke fro thy fysch & as esyly as thu may drawe awey the bone fro thy tayle that hit come out hole & wynd the bone aboughte youre hond & alwey as hit comith out w wynd hit up & gedyr hit out hole aftyrward othe ch thy lamprey outward over the bake syde eche pece iij fyngerys brode ofn lynye so that hit hold to gedyr & toyle hym well in his oune blode yf thu wilte make thyn be somdele brown & take good wyn to the bakyng of the lamprey & halfe pynte will one to youre brede theryn draw hit make hit nought to chargeaunt yf thu wilte thu may draw a few reysons & draw hit up with than loke the fiste paerte be venygger do ther to poudyr of canell a grete dele poudyr of galentyn poudyr lumbard poudyr gynger sawndres sigure saffron & salt yf thu wilt lev [f.70v] hit be thyn brown & yolowe make thy colour more of saundres make a large kosyne of paryd floure do youre lamprey ther yn & poure in galentyne so that hit stond as hye as the lamprey loke hit have a good lyde & a wete the brerdys al a boute & ley uppon put a penne by twyne the lede & the cofine & close hit al aboute till you come to the penne then blow thy penne that the syde ryse al aboute then take out thy penne close hit fast then have a good pele & sethit esyly on the oven & bake hit esyly & longe sokyng To make soppys in galentyn in a vessell & put ther to wyn & medle hit to gedyr till hit be smoth do sigure and yf hit nede put to more poudyr & medyll in fere that hit be somdele thyn then put hit in a pott of erthe set hit on colys of fyre tyll hit be at boylyng & stere hit well have white brede cut yn shyvers as brewys & tost hit a lytyll & then bast hit & poure some of the same galentyn in the same cofyne so that hit may wete the botom & couch ther some of youre brede & poure yn more galentyne then couche yn the remnaunt of youre brede & couch yn the remnaunt of youre galentyne & ley on the lede & serve hit forth.

-=-=-

This recipe is a match for recipe 55 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To bak a freche lampry tak and put a quyk lampry in a pot put ther to a porcyon of red wyne then stop the pot close that he lep not out and when he is dyinge tak him out and put hym in skaldinge water then tak hym in your handes with alyn clothe and a handfull of hay in the tother hand and strik hym so that the skyn go away and saue him hole then weshe hym and cut hym out whart a straw brod from the naville so that the stringe be lowse, then slitt hym a litill at the throt and tak out the string and kep the blode in a vesselle and it be a female thrust in your hand from the naville upwards so that the spawn com out ther as ye tak out the stringe and ye will boile it salt it a littill in the same place within that ye may cum and lowse the bone with a prik from the fische and brek it a litill from the hed and slit hym a litill from the taille then put the prik betwene the bone and the fische and drawe the bone from the taille as esly as ye may that it cum out all hole from the taile then wind the bone about thy finger and drawe it out softly for breking and so ye shall tak it out hole then chope the lampry o[u with curl] twhart the bak eury pece iij fingers brode and let them hold to gedure and toile them welle in the blod, and ye will mak your galentyn of crust of white bred cutt it in schyves and toiste it on a gredirne that it be somdelle broun and tak a quart of good red wyne for the bakinge of the lampry and put the bred ther in and drawe it and mak it not chargaunt and ye will ye may grind a fewe of raissins and mak it up ther with and let the fyft part be venygar put ther to pouder of cannelle a gretdele, pouder galingalle pouder lombard pouder of guinger sugur saffron and salt and let it be be tweene braun and yallowe and mak thy colour of sanders then mak a large coffyn of pured floure and put thy lampry ther in and put in the galentyn that it stand as highe as the lampery and let it haue a good lide and wet the bredes round about and lay it in the coffyn and close it round about to the pen for ye must haue a pen betweene the lidd and the coffyne to blow the pen that the lid may rise welle and luk the ovene be hoot and set it in to it [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is also a similar recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.
xxiij - Lamprays bake. Take and make fayre round cofyns of fyne past, and take Freyssche lampreys, and late hem blode .iij. fyngerys with-in the tayle, and lat hem blede in a vesselle, and late hym deye in the same vesselle in the same blode; than take broun Brede, and kyt it, and stepe it in the Venegre, and draw thorw a straynoure; than take the same blode, and pouder of Canel, and cast ther-to tyl it be broun; than caste ther-to pouder Pepir, Salt, and Wyne a lytelle, that it be no3t to strong of venegre. An skald the Lampray, and pare hem clene, and couche hym round on the cofyn, tyl he be helyd; than kyuere hym fayre with a lede, saue a lytel hole in the myddelle, and at that hool, blow in the cofynne with thin mowthe a gode blast of Wynde. And sodenly stoppe the hole, that the wynd a-byde with-ynne, to reyse vppe the cofynne, that he falle nowt a-dowune; and whan he is a lytel y-hardid in the ouen, pryke the cofyn with a pynne y-stekyd on a roddys ende, for brekyng of the cofynne, and than lat bake, and serue forth colde. And when the lamprey is take owt of the cofynne and etyn, take the Syrippe in the cofynne, and put on a chargere, and caste Wyne ther-to, an pouder Gyngere, and lat boyle in the fyre. Than take fayre Paynemayn y-wette in Wyne, and ley the soppis in the cofynne of the lamprey, and ley the Syrippe a-boue, and ete it so hot; for it is gode lordys mete  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 117 Wellyd pepyr for rostyd veele


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

117. Wellyd pepyr for rostyd veele
Cut brede in shivys tost hem on a roste yryn that hit be somdele broun yf thu wylte thu may grate hit or els temper hit wyn or with ale & draw hit thorow a streynour that hit be somdele thike put ther to poudyr of pepyr & a lytyl safron boyle hit & serve hit forth hot loke hit have a taste of venyggour.

-=-=-

This recipe is a close match for recipe 57 from A Noble Boke off Cookry, which is an interruption after a 16-recipe run of duplicates.
To mak wellid peper for rost vele tak and cutt bred in schyves and toist it upon a gridirne that it be somdele broun and ye may grat it and temper it with wyne or ale and drawe it throughe a strener that it be somdele thik put ther to pouder and saffron and boile it and serue it hot but let it haue a taist of venygar.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Simple pepper sauces for veal are reasonably common, but "Welled Pepper" appears to be unique to Noble and Wagstaff.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 116 Chaudon of Swan


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

116. Chaudon of Swan or of wylde goose
Take the hert of a swan the geser and the yarmez slete hem shave hem seth hem & the fetys & the whyngys also take out the bonnys of the whyngys do hem awey hew al that othir small do hit in a pot sethe hit with the same broth draw a lyour of brede with rede wyn alay hit up ther with & sesyn hit up with poudyr of peper gyngour & salt loke hit have a good colour of blod take out the smal bonys of thy fete & lete the flesch be over the leggys a bovyn & ley a fete in a dysch & put chaudon a boven.

-=-=-

This recipe is a match for recipe 54 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak chandron for swannes, tak the hert of a swan and the gossern and the tharmes and slit them and shave them and sethe them, do ther to the feet and wings mak them smalle and put them in a pot and boile it then drawe a liour of bred and red wine and alay it up then sesson it with pouder of pepper guinger and salt and let it haue a good colour of blod then tak out the smale bones of the feet and let the skyn be hole and lay a foot in a disshe and a wing there on and serue it [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Chaudron of Swan appears to have been an popular and enduring recipe, with examples showing up in cookbooks up through the 17th century.

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 115 Sauce camelyn


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

115. Sauce camelyn for quaylys & othir maner of foules and fysch
[f70r] Take white bred & draw hit in the maner of sauce gynger with venyger & put ther to poudyr of canell a grete dele & poudyr of gynger & poudyr lumbard & draw hit a ghen & yf thu wilt draw a lytyll mustard ther with & sesyn hit up with sygure that hit be doucete salt hit & colour hit with safron.

-=-=-

This recipe is a match for recipe 53 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak sauce camelyne for quaile, tak whyt bred and drawe it in the sauce in the manner of guinger sauce with venyger put ther to pouder of guinger canelle and pouder lombard a goodelle and ye may draw alitille mustard ther with and sesson it up with mustard that it be douce salt it and colour it with saffron and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

On its own, the phrase "mustard that it be douce" in the Noble version is odd, but the error is made clear by the substitution of "sugar" in Wagstaff for the second appearance of "mustard".

There are many recipes for Camaline Sauce in surviving cookbooks, with a wide variety of ingredients, but these two are the only ones I've found that call for mustard.

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 114 Sauce Madam


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

114. Sauce Madam
Take the yarmazs of a gose flat hem wesch hem skinyn hem clene and the gessez and the lyne & the lefe of the gose & the soule do al in a pot to gedyr boyle hit tendyr take hit up lay hit on a bord pyke a wey the bonys of the whengys & hew hit smal do hit in a pott do ther to onyons mynsyd smal clovys macys & fars the gose with onyons & herbys hewyb wardons mynsyd grapys rose hepe smyte here in pecys lay here in a chargeour & do the farsour in a pott to that othir & wyn & sesyn hit up with poudr salt & venyger and yf thu wilt thu may take yolkes of eyron sodyn hard & ground small & do ther to like hit be salt & pure hit on the perys.

-=-=-

This recipe is a close match for recipe 52 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak sauce madame tak the tharmes of a gose and slit them and shave them clene then tak the gossern the wings the skyn and the soule of the gose and put them all in a pot with mynced onyons mynced wardens and grapes rostid then rost hir and smyt hir in peces and lay here in a chargiour and put the farser in a pot put ther to wyn and sesson it up with pouder and salt and venygar and thou wilt thou may tak yolks of egges sodene herd and cromyd smalle and put ther to and let it be salt and pour it on the peces and serue it [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The wording is surprisingly similar. Not only do both use of the word "tharmes/yarmazs" (entrails), but they also feature the unusual use of the pronoun "her" to describe the food in place of the more common "him" or "it".

There are versions of Sauce Madame in other surviving cookbooks, but their wording is significantly different.

Sawse Madame. XXX. Take sawge. persel. ysope. and saueray. quinces. and peeres, garlek and Grapes. and fylle the gees þerwith. and sowe the hole þat no grece come out. and roost hem wel. and kepe the grece þat fallith þerof. take galytyne and grece and do in a possynet, whan the gees buth rosted ynowh; take an smyte hem on pecys. and þat tat is withinne and do it in a possynet and put þerinne wyne if it be to thyk. do þerto powdour of galyngale. powdour douce and salt and boyle the sawse and dresse þe Gees in disshes and lay þe sowe onoward.  [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]
Sawce madame. Take sawge, persoly, ysope, saveray, Onyons gode, peres, garlek, I say, And grapes. go fille þy gose þenne And sew þy hole, no grece oute renne. Lay hur to fyre and rost hyr browne, And kepe þo grece þat falles doune. Take galingale and þo grece þat renne, Do hit in posnet, as I þe kenne. Whenne þo gose is rostyd, take hir away, Smyte hir in pesys, I þe pray. Þat is within, þou schalle take oute, Kest in þy posnet with outene doute. 3if hit is thyke do þerto wyne, And powder of galingale þat is fyne, And powder dowce and salt also. Boyle alle togeder er þou fyr go, In a dysshe þy gose þou close Þe sawce abofe, as I suppose.  [Liber cure cocorum (England, 1430)]
Sauce Madame. Take sauge and parsel, ysope, and saveray, and qwynses (quinces), and gode percs pared, and cut hom and garlyk and grapes; then take gees clene wasshen, and fyl the gees therwythe, and sowe wel the hole that no grees go oute, and rost horn wel, and kepe the gresc clene that droppes in the rostynge ; then take galentyne and the grees of the gees, and do hit in a postenet (pipkin); and when the gees byn ynough, take hom of the fpitte and smyte hom on peces, and take that that is within smal hewen, and do it in the postenet; and do therto a litel wyn and raisynges of corance, and pouder of gynger and of canel, and let hit boyle, then dresse thi gees in platers, and poure the sauce above, and serve hit forthe.  [Ancient Cookery (England, 1425)]

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 113 Hattes In Lentyn


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

113. (Hattes) In lentyn
Thou may make thy past of paryd floure knodyn with milke of almondys & put ther to alytyll safron take fresch samon base melete & the lyver of fisch sodyn & groundyn & a lytyll fruyte ther with & yf thu wilte poudrys safron & salt make thy bature of paryd floure & milke of almondys & dryght hit in the same maner as thu dedyste byfore.

-=-=-

While the name "Hattes" is implicit in the title, it is explicitly included in the corresponding recipe (number 51) in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak hattes in lent mak a paist of pured flour knoddene with mylk of almondes then tak saffron eles base or molet and the leuer of the fishe sodden and grond put them to alitille fritture pouder of saffron and salt and mak the bater of pured floure and almond mylk and do it as ye did be for.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The list of fish from the Noble version seems to have left out salmon - perhaps a copying error that collapsed "saffron take fresh salmon" into just "saffron".

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 112 Hattes


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

112. Hattes
Make a past of paryd floure knedyn with yolkes of eyron & make a st[uff] of vele or pork sodyn & gryoundyn with yolkes of eyron mary dysyd & datus mymynsyd corauns sigure safron & salt poudyr & medyll al to gedyr & make youre past of round foyles of the brode of a saucer as thyn may be drawn turne hem doble that the brerdys may come to the medyll of the foyle then turne hem to gedyr that the brerdys on the more mete al aboute & the lasse brerde turne upward with outyn in the maner of a hat & close well the egges that they hold well fyll ther on thy stuff have a bature of yolkes of eyron & whete floure in the opyn syde that ys toward loke ther yn the stuf be closyd & set hit yn hote grece upryght when the bature ys fryed thu may ley hym down & fry hym al over.

-=-=-

This version is a close match for recipe 50 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak hattes in flesshe tyme mak a paiste of pured flour, knodene with yolks of eggs and mak a stuf of vele or pork sodene tender and ground with yolks of eggs putther to mary diced and dates mynced smalle and raissins of corrans with sugur saffron and salt and pouder mellid to gedur in paiste and wound foilles of the brod of a saucere as thyn as ye may dryf them and dryf them that the bredes may cuver to the middes of the foile then turn them to gedur that the bredes of the inor sid met all about and lesse the bred and turn upward without in the manner of an hatte and close welle the eggs that they hold full ther in and luk the stuf haue a good batter made with yolks of eggs and flour of whet the open sid that is downward luk ther in that the stuf be clossed and so set it in hot grece up right and when the battur is fried lay them doun and serve them [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The wording in the Noble version makes it clear that the incomplete word in Wagstaff is "stuff".  It is also interesting that the phrase "close well the eggs" (rather than edges) is repeated in both versions.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 111 Ffelets of porke yn doryd


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

111. Ffelets of porke yn doryd
Do awey the skyn of felets of porke & broch hem roste hem take poudyr bast hem take yolkes of eyron drawyn thorow a streynour when the felets be rostyd dry hem that no grece be rennyng uppon hem & endore hem with yolkes of eyron a fore sayde.

-=-=-

This version is a clear match for recipe 49 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak pestelles of pork, endored tak and broche pestellis of pork and put of the skyn and rost it then tak poudur and baist it and yolk of egge draw throughe a strener and when they be rosted dry it at the greuyng up and endor hem with yolks of eggs and serue them furthe.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

While there are several recipes for "pommes dorre" (golden apples) in other contemporary cookbooks, these two appear unique in that the pork is not ground and formed into meatballs before cooking.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 110 Payn purdyeu


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

110. Payn purdyeu
Take paundemayn or fresh bredd pare a wey the crustys cut hit in schyverys fry hem [f.69v] a lytyll yn claryfyd hony buture have yolkes of eyron drawyn thorow a streynour & as hote as thu may ley the brede ther yn that hit be al helyd with bature then fry in the same bature & serve hit forth & strew on hote sygure.

-=-=-

Pain perdu, known to modern English speakers as French Toast, appears in several medieval sources.  This version is a clear match for recipe 48 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak payn pardieu tak paynmayne or freshe bred and paire away the cruste cutt them in schyues and fry them alitill in clarified butter then tak yolks of eggs drawe throughe a strene as hot as ye may and lay the bred ther in and turn it therin that they be coueryd in batter and serue it and straw on sugur enowghe [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is an obvious error in the Noble version in that the bread is not fried after being coated in batter.

Other versions describe pretty much the same recipe, but are worded differently.
xliij - Payn pur-dew. Take fayre ȝolkys of Eyroun, and trye hem fro the whyte, and draw hem thorw a straynoure, and take Salt and caste ther-to; than take fayre brede, and kytte it as troundeȝ rounde; than take fayre Boter that is claryfiyd, or ellys fayre Freysshe grece, and putte it on a potte, and make it hote; than take and wete wyl thin troundeȝ in the ȝolkys, and putte hem in the panne, an so frye hem vppe; but ware of cleuyng to the panne; and whan it is fryid, ley hem on a dysshe, and ley Sugre y-nowe ther-on, and thanne serue it forht [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]
Payn purdeuz. Take faire yolkes of eyren, and try hem fro the white, and drawe hem thorgh a streynour; and then take salte, and caste thereto; And then take manged brede or paynman, and kutte hit in leches; and then take faire buttur, and clarefy hit, or elles take fressh grece and put hit yn a faire pan, and make hit hote; And then wete the brede well there in the yolkes of eyren, and then ley hit on the batur in the pan, whan the buttur is al hote; And then whan hit is fried ynowe, take sugur ynowe, and caste there-to whan hit is in the dissh, And so serue hit forth [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 109 Long Fryturys


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

109. Long Fryturys
Make of the same but lat no creme come ther yn loke hit be more styf aftyr ley hit on a clene bord that ys no broddyr than theyn hond take a bone of the ryb of a best wete hym in grece that thy bature cleve nought ther on & stryke of the bature yn to a pan that hit may fal in to smal gobets every fretyre of hondfull longe & serve hem forth hote & strew on white sygure thu may grynd tendyr chese & make freturys in the same maner and yf thu wilt take sodyn porke sodyn tendour & grynd hit ther with make hit in pelets as grete as a negge & that ys freture lumbard.

-=-=-

This recipe is a match for recipe 47 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak longe fritturs tak som of the same batter and let none other ther in for it will be the more stiff then lay it on a clene bord that is no brodder than the hond and tak the bone of a ribe of a beste and wet it in grece that the batter cleve not ther on then strik of the bater with a bone in to the pan that it may fall in smalle peces euye fritur a hand full longe serue them hot and strawe ther on sugur and ye may grind thes in the sam manner and ye will tak pork sodden tender and grind therin and mak pilottes as gret as an egge that is called fritture lombard and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are also two related recipes in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.


xlvj - Longe Fretoure. Take Milke, an make fayre croddes ther-of, in the maner of a chese al tendyr; than take owt the whey as clene as thou may, and putte it on a bolle; than take 3olkys of Eyroun and Ale, and menge floure, and cast ther-to, a gode quantyte, and draw it thorw a straynoure in-to a fayre vesselle; than take a panne with fayre grece, and hete it on the fyre, but lat it nowt boyle, and than ley thin creme a-brode; than take a knyff, and kytte a quantyte ther-of fro the borde in-to the panne, and efte a-nother, and let it frye; and whan it is brownne, take it vppe in-to a fayre dyssche, and caste Sugre y-now ther-on, and serue forth [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]
Longe Frutours. Take Mylke And make faire croddes there-of in maner of chese al tendur, and take oute the way clene; then put hit in a faire boll, And take yolkes of egges, and white, and menge floure, and caste thereto a good quantite, and drawe hit thorgh a streynoure into a faire vessell; then put hit in a faire pan, and fry hit a litull in faire grece, but lete not boyle; then take it oute, and ley on a faire borde, and kutte it in faire smale peces as thou list, And putte hem ayen into the panne til thei be browne; And then caste Sugur on hem, and serue hem forth [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 108 Samatays


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

108. Samatays
Take vellyd cruddys or they be pressyd do hem yn a cloth wryng out the whey do hem yn a morter grynd hem well with paryd floure & tempyr hem with eyryn & creme of cow mylke & make ther of a rennyng bature than have white grece in a panne loke hit be hote take up the bature with a saucer & let hit renne in the grece draw thyn hond bacward [crossed out: than] that hit may renne [crossed out: bacward] a brode then fry hem ryght well & somdell hard reschelyng & serve hit forth in disches & strew on white sygure.

-=-=-

This recipe is a close match for recipe 46 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak samartard tak wetted cruddes er they bee pressed and put them in a clothe and grinde them well to pured flour and temper hem with eggs and cowe creme and mak ther of a good batere that it be rynynge then, tak whit grece in a pan and let it be hete and tak out the batter with a saucer and let it ryn into the grece and draw your hand bakward that it may ryn abrod then fry it welle and whit and somwhat craking and serue it furthe in dishes with sugur ther on [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The title of the recipe, along with some of the ingredients, leads me to think it is related to the recipe for Sambocade in Forme of Cury.
SAMBOCADE. XX.VIII. XI. Take and make a Crust in a trape. & take a cruddes and wryng out þe wheyze. and drawe hem þurgh a straynour and put in þe straynour crustes. do þerto sugur the þridde part & somdel whyte of Ayrenn. & shake þerin blomes of elren. & bake it up with curose & messe it forth [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 107 Bastons


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

107. Bastons
Make a stif bature of yolkes of eyron & paryd floure & sigure a grete dele & a lytyll yest of new ale set hit by the fyre or els in a pot boylyng that hit may take a lytyl hete when hit ys rysyd sweng hit well to gedyr that hit a ghene loke thy oven be hote & clene swepyd poure hit on the floure of the oven & bake hit as french bred than make hit out cut a wey the crustys abovyn the bred of a nobyll & make an hole & reys hit al abovyn under the crust endlyng ovyrtugharte[over thwart?] as thike as thu may with a knyf & so do enyure to the boyfound[bottom?] but safe the boyfound[bottom?] hole & the crust al a boute & fil hit full of claryfyde hony & set on the crust a ghen & set hym on the oven when they be somdell drydd & serve hit forth.

-=-=-

This recipe is a close match for recipe 45 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak votose tak gobettes of mary and dates cutt gret sugur and poudur of guinger saffron and salt and mak afoile as ye did be for and do it out of the pot and mak another then tak the for said stuf and couche ther in almost as brod as the foile and wet the bredes of the foille aboue and closse it and bak it essely and when it is bak cutt it in peces eury pece ij enche square.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are also two versions of the same recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books which describe the process much more clearly.
xxv - Rastons. Take fayre Flowre, and the whyte of Eyroun, and the 3olke, a lytel; than take Warme Berme, and putte al thes to-gederys, and bete hem to-gederys with thin hond tyl it be schort and thikke y-now, and caste Sugre y-now ther-to, and thenne lat reste a whyle; than kaste in a fayre place in the oven, and late bake y-now; and then with a knyf cutte yt round a-boue in maner of a crowne, and kepe the cruste that thou kyttyst; and than pyke al the cromys withynne to-gederys, an pike hem smal with thin knyf, and saue the sydys and al the cruste hole with-owte; and than caste ther-in clarifiyd Boter, and Mille the crome3 and the botere to-gedere3, and keuere it a-3en with the cruste, that thou kyttest a-way; than putte it in the ovyn a3en a lytil tyme; and than take it out, and serue it forth.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]
Rastons. Take fyne floure, and white of eyren, and a litul of the yolkes; And then take warme berm, and put al thes togidre, and bete hem togidre with thi honde so longe til hit be short and thik ynogh. And caste sugur ynowe thereto; And then lete rest a while; And then cast hit in a faire place in an oven, and lete bake ynogh; And then kut hit with a knyfe rownde aboue in maner of a crowne, and kepe the crust that thou kuttest, and pile all the cremes within togidre; and pike hem small with thi knyfe, and saue the sides and al the cruste hole withoute; And then cast thi clarefied butter, and medle the creme and the buttur togidre, And couer hit ayen with the cruste that thou kuttest awey; and then put hit in the oven ayen a litull tyme, and take it oute, and serue hit forthe all hote.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 106 Vontes


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

106. Vontes
Take gobets of mary & dates cut sigure & poudyr of gynger a grete dele & safron & salt & make a foyle as thu makest to that othir by fore & do hit out of the panne & than make a nothir take of the forsayd stuf & couch in al most as brod as the foyle & wete the bredys of the foyle a bovyn close hit late it bake forth esyly when hit ys bakyn cut hit in pecys ech off ij & serve hit forth.

-=-=-

This recipe is a close match for recipe 44 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak votose tak gobettes of mary and dates cutt gret sugur and poudur of guinger saffron and salt and mak afoile as ye did be for and do it out of the pot and mak another then tak the for said stuf and couche ther in almost as brod as the foile and wet the bredes of the foille aboue and closse it and bak it essely and when it is bak cutt it in peces eury pece ij enche square.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 105 Quystes


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

105. Quystes
Take a pese of befe or of motyn wyn & watyr boyle hit skeme hit clene than take quystes chop hem with yn with hole pepyr & cast hem in to the pott & let hem stew ryght well to gedyr & take poudyr of gynger & a lytyll vergeys & salt [f.69r] & cast ther to do hem in fayre dischys a quyst or ij in a disch for a maner of potage and when thu shalt serve hit forth take a lytyll broth & put hit in dischys to the quystys.

-=-=-

This recipe is a close match for recipe 43 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak quystis tak a pece of beef or of moton and wyne and water and boile it and scem it clene then stop the quistes within with whole peppur and cast them in a pot and cover it and let it stewe welle put ther to poudur of guinger watire and salt and cast ther to and put them in faire disches one or ij in a dische for a maner of potage and when they be serued furthe tak alitill brothe and put in the disches among the quystis and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There is also a version of this recipe in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books as well.
xiiij - Quystis Scune. Take a pece of beef or of mutoun, and wyne and fayre water, and caste in-to a potte, an late hem boyle, an skeme it wyl an clene; than take quystes, an stoppe hem wyth-in wyth hole pepyr, and marwe, an than caste hem in-to the potte, an ceuere wyl the potte, an let hem stere ry3th wyl to-gederys; an than take powder gyngere, and a lytel verious an salt, and caste ther-to, an thanne serue hem forth in a fayre dysshe, a quyste or to in a dysshe, in the maner of a potage: an whan thowe shalt serue hem forth, take a lytil of the broth, an put on dysshe wyth quystys, an serue forth.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

The word "quystes" in Middle English is a corruption of the Scottish word "cushat", which is a wood pigeon.

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 104 Hages of Almayne


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

104. Hages of Almayne
Take eyron draw hem thorow a streynour perboyle percelley in fat broth hew & hard yolkes of eyron to gedyr do ther to poudyr of gynger sigure & salt & marye & put hit in a streynour ende in a boylyng pott perboyle hit take hit up lat hit kele cut hit smal take drawn eyron put hem in a panne loke they pan be moysty of grece lat the bature ren a brod into a foyle cuch ther yn hard yolkes merye & percellye & turne the iiij sydds to gedyr that hit close a bovyn & ley hit square take of the same bature & wete the eggys that hit hold stonch & close ther yn the stuf turne hit upsodown frye hit on both sydys & serve hit forthe.

-=-=-

This recipe is a close match for recipe 42 from A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak an hagges of Almayne tak and draw eggs through a strener and parboile parcely in fat brothe then hew it and hew yolks of eggs to gedure put ther to pouder of guinger sugur and salt. and put mary in a strene and let it honge in the pot boilling and parboille it and tak it upe and let it kele then cutt it smalle and tak egg drawen throughe a strener and put them into a pan and let the pan be moist of grece let the batter ryn abrod into a foile then couche ther in iij hard yolks of eggs and mary and parsly and turn the iiij sides to gedur that they close to gedur aboue that they lie square then tak of the same bater and whit of egge that it hold stanche and close it and serue yt [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Haggis of Almayn seems to have been a popular recipe as there are nearly identical versions in contemporary sources.
l - Hagas de Almaynne. Take Fayre Eyroun, the 3olke and the Whyte, and draw hem thorw a straynour; than take Fayre Percely, and parboyle it in a potte with boyling brothe; than take the 3olkys of Eyroun hard y-sothe, and hew the 3olkys and the Percely smal to-gederys; than take Sugre, pouder Gyngere, Salt, and caste ther-to; then take merow, and putte it on a straynourys ende, and lat hange in-to a boyling potte; and parboyle it, and take it vppe, and let it kele, and than kytte it in smal pecys; than take the drawyn Eyroun, and put hem in a panne al a-brode, and vnnethe ony grece in the panne, and cowche ye 3olkys and the Percely ther-on in the panne, and than cowche of the Marow pecys ther-on, and than fold vppe eche kake by-nethe eche corner in .iiij. square, as platte, and turne it on the panne one3; let lye a litel whyle; than take it vp and serue forth.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]
Hagas de almondes. Take faire yolkes of eyren, and the White, and drawe hem thorgh a Streynour, and take faire parcelly, and parboyle hit in a potte, and parboylingge brothe; And then take yolkes of yren, sodde hard, and hewe the yolkes and the parcely small togidre; And take sugur, pouder of Gynger, and salte, and cast to yolkes and parcelly; And take mary, and put hit in a streynour, And lete hong yn to the boyling potte, and parboile; and take hit vppe, and lette hit kele, And kutte hit then in smale peces; And then take the drawen eyren, and putte hem in a pan al a-brode, (And vnneth eny grece in the pan,) and couche the yolkes and the parcelly there-on in the pan. And then couche the peces of the mary thereon; And then folde vp the kake byneth euery corner, to eche corner foure square al flatte, And turne hit on the pan; And lete hit lye awhile, And then take it vp, and serue hit forth.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

To make a Haggas of Almain. Take two Buts of Mutton, and frye them well from Skinnes and senowes, and mince it with suet as small as you can, then take Dates and mince them smal, then take these Spices which follow, one ounce of Corance clean washed, an ounce of Ginger and asmuch of pepper, and an ounce of Sugar with the yolkes of eight or nine Egs, clean fryed from the whites. Take also fine faire light bread grated, with a little Salt, and a portion of Saffron, and boile al these togither, then row these Corance in Suet of a Calfe or Sheepe, then put them into a frying pan, and so set them into a hot oven, and when they be brown turne them, and when they be baked, take them out and serve three in a dish.  [A Book of Cookrye (England, 1591)] 

While the word "Almayn" in the recipe title is undoubtedly a reference to Germany ("Almagne" in French), one of the recipes in Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books takes it to mean "almonds". This is especially amusing seeing that almonds are not included among the ingredients.

Thursday, March 13, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 103 Creme of almondys


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

103. Creme of almondys
Blaunch grynd hem kepe hem as white as thy may & tempyr hem up with thike mylke with fayre watyr drawe hit put hit in a clene pott sette hit on the fyre stere hit well when hit by gynneth to seth take hit of yf thy have moch do ther to a dischfull of wyn venyger yf ther be a lytyll do ther yn to the pott lete hyt stond a whyle have a clene cloth holden on a bord by twyxt ij men or iiij men strat cast the creme ther yn with a ladyll as brod as they cloth & rubbe thy cloth undyr neth with a ladyll toward [crossed out: the] & froward so that thy may draw out all the watyr then gedyr hit to gedyr in to the myddyl of the cloth & bynd the corners to gedyr honge hit on a pynne & lett the watyr soke out do hit on a bolle & tempyr hit up with white wyn bose hit with a sawcer til hit be as softe as thy wolt have hit.

-=-=-

This recipe appears to be a match to recipe 41 in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak creme of almonds tak blanched almondes and grind them up and temper them up akurd thik mylk with faire water drawe it into the pot and sett it on the fyere and stirre it welle when it begynnethe to rise / and ye have to myche put ther to a dishefulle of venygar if ther be alitille putt ther in the lesse hille the pot and let it stand awhile then tak a clene cloth and hold it abrod betweene iiij men strait cast the creme there in and rube it undirnethe the clothe with a ladille toward and froward with the egge of the ladille to draw out the watter then gadur it to gedur unto the myddle of the clothe then bind the corners to gedur and hong it upon a pyne and let the water run out then put it in a bolle and temper it up withe wyne and bruse it with a saucer as soft as ye wille and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are very similar recipes in other contemporary sources, including the direction beginning with "if you have much", which suggests that this was a popular recipe of the time.
Creme of Almonds. Recipe & blawnch almondes, & grinde þam & kepe þam als whyte as зe mey, & temper it thyk with watur & draw it, & put it in a pott. And sett it oure þe fyre & styr it wele; and when it begyns to rise take it of. If зe wyll haue mykyll, þan do a lityll þerto of vinegre & lat it stande a whyle, & take a clene cloth haldyn abrode betwene tiw men, & trast þerin with a ladyl als brode as þe cloth wyll striche towards & froward ay with þe ege of þe ladyll þat зe may draw oute all þe watyrs; & þan gedyre it to þe corners togydyrs & hang it vpon a pyn, & let þe water soke oute into a boll; & temper it with whyte wyne, & bruse it with a sawcer tyll it be als softe as зe wyll haue it, & serof it forth.  [MS Harley 5401 (England, 15th century)]
To make Creme of Almoundes. Blanche almounds kepe them As ye may them temper up to A thycke mylke with fayre water streyne hit and put hit in A pott and set hit on the fyre stere hit well when hit begynnys to ryse up take hit of yf thow have moche do ther to A dyschfull of VynAgyr yf thou have but a litell do the lesse hele the pot let hit stonde A whyle. Take a clene cloth holdyn a brode betwene .iiij. folkes streyte & cast the creme þer on with a ladyll as brode as the cloth And rubbe the cloth toward and froward with the egge of the ladyll that þer may woyde the water. Then gather hit to geder in þe myddyl of the cloth bynde the .iiij. Corners to geder and hang on A pynne that the Water may soke onto And then do hit in A bolle And tempyr hit up wyth white wyne And bete hit with a sawser on to the tyme that hit be softe.  [MS Pepys 1047 (England, ca. 1500)]

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 102 Gely of flesch


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

102. Gely of flesch
Take conyngys fle hem scalle pyggys chopp hem fre of the here scale chikenys draw hem & yf thu wilt thu may chopp kede also the conynge & the pygge couch hit in dyschys in a cold place ther they may stond styll set thy broth a gen ovir the fyre loke hit be wel skemyd that no fat be ther on take calvys feete clene scaldyd clene hem set hem in the same broth tyl they be tendyr loke thy brothe be clene skemyd sesyn hit in al maner as thy dose thy fysch & fill thy disches ther with & do ther to in al maner as thy dost to fysch.

-=-=-

This recipe appears to be a match to recipe 40 in A Noble Boke off Cookry, though the Wagstaff version is missing some of the detail.
To mak a gilly of fleshe take conys and fley them and skald pegions chop them and fley of the skyne skald chekins and chope kiddes and put all to gedur and boile it in red wyne then tak it upe and lay it in a clene clothe dry the peces of the kid pigions and conys and couche them in dishe and chope chekkins and put ther to then set the chekkins in a cold place where it may stand stille then set the brothe to the fyere agayne and luk it be well strened that no fat abid ther on then tak skalded caluys feet and lay them in the same brothe till they be tender and luk the brothe be clene scomed sessen it up with salt and serue it [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

It is worth noting that, of all the surviving recipes for meat gelatin, these two appear to be the only ones that call for such a variety of meat but do not call for adding spices like saffron or cinnamon. 

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 101 Cristell gely


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

101. Cristell gely
Take swete wyn that wol hold his colour & boyle youre fisch ther yn & do ther with yn alle maners as thu dost with that othir & gheve hit none othir colour than shalt thu have hit as brygth as silvyr & serve hit forth.

-=-=-

This recipe is in part almost identical to recipe 39 in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak cristalle gilly tak whyt wyne that will hold hir colour and boil the fishe ther in and let it stand and serve it furthe.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 100 Gely on fysch days


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

-=-=-

100. Gely on fysch days
Splat pekys & tenches chop hem in small pecys & draw smal perchys fle elys chop hem & do to gedyr in a pan & boyle hoit with rede wyne take hit up ley hit on a clene cloth or on a clene bord pyle out the bonys strip the sknyn kepe the pecys hole couch hem in dischys the pyke & the tenche to gedyr & the gobenys of the elys & stryp the skyn a wey of the perchis & couch hem put one in a dysch & othir charge nowght thi dyschis over muche with youre fisch set hit on a colde place ther they may stond styll & set the panne aghene over the fyre & take barbell or congure playce or thornebake or othir good fisch that wil a gely & loke the skynys of the elys be clene & do ther to boyle hit in the same broth skeme hit clene that ther be no fat of the fisch ther on take hit up with a skemer do hit where thu wilt poure the broth thorow a clene cloth in to a clene pott set hit aghen on the fyre do ther to poudyr of pepyr & longe pepyr brekyd in a morter & thu may yf thu wilt have smal bagges of lynnyn cloth iij or iiij & put youre poudres ther yn sew hem that they go nought out henge over the sydys of the panne when ye boyle youre fisch a way tyl the seson hit take hem out & wryng out the broth & do hem awey & that ys bettyr maner then take up some ther of & poure hit on the brerd of a disch & let hit be cold & ther thu shalt se where hit be chargeaunt or els take more fisch that wolle gely & put hit ther yn do a wey the fisch sesyn the broth with venyger & salt colour with watyr of safron that hath be longe sokyd to gedyr so that the watyr have drawn out al the colour of the safron & shall kepe youre gely clere & bryght as lambour do on a drop or ij on the brede of a dysch & ther thu shalt a se yf that thy coloure be good salt hit take a clene clothe bynde the corners hong hit up poure the gely ther yn have a vessell undyr nethe kepe that rennought fyl up your dysches ther with when the most hete hit [f.68v] splat hit with blaunched almonds that they may hong ther yn and hole clovys & macys when hit ys cold florych hit with paryd gynger & serve hit forthe.

-=-=-

There is a recipe for fish jelly in A Noble Boke off Cookry, but the wording and instructions are very different.
To mak tenche in gilly put red wyn in a pan then skald the tenche and splat him and cast hym into the panne and sethe hym and when he is enoughe lay hym in a plater and pill of the skyn and pik out the bones then set the licour and the skyn to the fyere and put ther to sugur to mak it doucet but ye may not put in the sugar till they two have boiled then cast in saffron salt ginger and vergius and let it renne throughe a strene and lay your tenche in a platter and plant hyme with blanched almondes and put on the gilly and serue it [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The fish jelly recipes from other sources describe much the same process, but again with different wording.
GELE OF FYSSH. C. I. Take Tenches, pykes, eelys, turbut and plays, kerue hem to pecys. scalde hem & waische hem clene. drye hem with a cloth do hem in a panne do þerto half vyneger & half wyne & seeþ it wel. & take the Fysshe and pike it clene, cole the broth thurgh a cloth into a erthen panne. do þerto powdour of pep and safroun ynowh. lat it seeþ and skym it wel whan it is ysode dof grees clene, cowche fisshes on chargeours & cole the sewe thorow a cloth onoward & serue it forth [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]
Cx - Gelye de Fysshe. Take newe Pykys, an draw hem, and smyte hem to pecys, and sethe in the same lycoure that thou doste Gelye of Fleysshe; an whan they ben y-now, take Perchys and Tenchys, and sethe; and Elys, an kutte hem in fayre pecys, and waysshe hem, and putte hem in the same lycoure, and loke thine lycoure be styf y-now; and 3if it wolle notte cacche, (Note: stick; see other Cookery, No. 174) take Soundys of watteryd Stokkefysshe, or ellys Skynnys, or Plays, an caste ther-to, and sethe ouer the fyre, and skeme it wyl; and when it ys y-now, let nowt the Fysshe breke; thenne take the lycoure fro the fyre, and do as thou dedyst be (Note: By, with) that other Gelye, saue, pylle the Fysshe, and ley ther-off in dysshis, that is, perche and suche; and Flowre hem, and serue forthe.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

It is worth noting that the recipes from Wagstaff and Noble appear to be the only fish jelly recipes that call for almonds.